new Ford 150 vs old Ford 150? which would you choose?

i’d choose both if i could. haha.

almost a hundred years old and still looking good!

Ford is built tough!

yesterday afternoon i heard this local looking guy speaking perfect Japanese. i asked him where he’s from and he said “Shikoku.” what??? then we started to talk story and come to find out, we know all the same people. haha. Shikoku is a very big island, but very tight surf community. nice to meet you Kai! and nice barrel!

duck dove and seen a lot of fish!

the proper way to duck dive is to time the wave right where you can come up in an open pocket like this. if you can do that, you will have zero resistance. takes time to learn but once you do, life is great!

been a while since i short boarded but still can throw some sprays! this feels pretty dam good!!!

**by the way, HAPPY NEW YEAR 2019 JAPAN! Kotoshi mou Yoroshiku Onegaishimasu! mine will be coming tomorrow so see you soon in 2019!

OMG, you missed this yesterday afternoon! We scored!!!

Good morning 6:15am.
North shore waist high and bumpy.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head shoulder high bumpy.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Morning rain becoming sunny.
Going surfing and surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

wow! watched the UFC fight and Football game in a bar at the same time! both were so exciting!!! nice adrenaline rush for us!

surfed with Ujiyabashi-san this morning. cloudy weather but perfect waves!

i couldn’t count after wave 20 so there were more than that ridden by this one happy surfer!

so stoked to see Ujiyabashi-san surfing so good and smiling at the sea time! this is how to enjoy the ride!

awesome day, awesome guy!

was kind of cold this morning so we went to warm up with a hot bowl of pho.

thank you Ujiyabashi-san for the surf and treat!

then went to surf this little peak this afternoon with a special guest. only 3 other surfers out so we pretty much scored!!! so lucky day!