took some photos of the locals out yesterday at Diamond Head. so fun!

this guy is a Doctor. hope these photos find him somehow…

awesome surfing Doc!

even on the cloudy days, Diamond Head looks so beautiful.

good to see a happy surfer!

and good to see women surfing as they get older…

and good to see my friend Shane ripping on his foil!

i went back out in the evening to foil and the waves were absolutely perfect!!!

then came home and my friend sent me these photos of the waves the other day in the Philippines!!! this is on his private island!

he invited me over so i accepted his invitation in 5 seconds. now i’m booking my flights as we speak for January!!! can’t wait to surf a secluded island in the most beautiful part of the world with nobody around!!! just me and a few of my lucky friends!!! 2019 is going to start off great!!!

Last night @ WYC. Dinner and fireworks…

Good morning 6:20am.
North shore 3-5′ and cleaning up.
Ala Moana knee high and almost flat.
Diamond Head chest high and best on South.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Rain, clouds, and hopefully sunny later.
Going to the ocean!
Have a wonderful day!

welcome back Kaneuji-san and Shunsuke-kun! these guys surf good so we went to the best spot, which was Diamond Head!

conditions were perfect, but must have had about 50 surfers out. some getting in the way!

Kaneuji-san just started short boarding and he’s looking pretty dam good!

long clean rides!

Shunsuke-kun has the drive to get better and better. and he’s surfing way better than the last time he came. amazing progress!

when you’re young and have so many dreams like this kid, a great successful life is ahead…

the rain came and it was so beautiful!!! i love rain!!!

i short boarded today but wished i foiled. if i did, i’d have better photos, and also more photos. i think my next job will be a foiling photographer?

nice cutback Shunsuke-kun!

we even had competition heats today. 12 minutes and best 2 waves just like amateur contests in Japan. so today i called it the “Diamond Head Masters!” haha.

always so nice to see Father and Son enjoying surfing and nature.

thank you boys for the wonderful time. see you again very soon for some more contest practice!

oh, i have good news! i didn’t get called a “Dick” today! haha…