I’m a Dick!


before i slept last night, i knew Diamond Head would be the best spot today. it was absolutely perfect when i pulled up at 7:30am.

all i needed was 5 waves and i felt satisfied. only took 40 minutes to get that. then on my last wave, this lady called me a “dick.” just like asshole, that’s a pretty bad word to call a guy, but words don’t bother me anymore. she’s probably a hater to foilers. i know “silence is golden” but i had to say a few words. i just said “i’m not a dick, but if you call me a dick again, i’ll be a dick.” haha…

i go up and talk to my other foiler friend for a while about foiling and the crazy crime wave we’ve been having in Hawaii. he happens to be a Policeman. then i thought, i can’t wait till the day someone calls him a “dick!” haha…

then went to load up Mayuki with the Kawai-san family boys and headed for a spearfishing trip!

this is or 3rd year in a row spearfishing. i just love to watch these kids grow into fine young men. so stoked they love the ocean and this is going to be the unbreakable bond they will share forever…

thank you Hideki-kun, Kawai-san, and Takahito-kun for the wonderful afternoon…

now Mateus wants a motorcycle. oh boy…

and he wants to be just like his cousin. speaking of cousin, Seth, Joshua, and about 30 other of the boys are in Niigata right now tearing up powder snow. please be careful if you see them because they are freaking reckless!

Toda-san, Takami-san, and Matsu are on another mountain so they’re safe. haha. good to see you guys. seen all this snow makes me want to go jump into the powder! maybe see you guys soon…

Cutback into Sunrise to Sunset


Nao-san and i paddled out before the sun even came up. it was still dark, but light enough to surf!

smooth glassy conditions with the moon shining so bright!

then the sun peaked over Diamond Head. my favorite moment!

this is how i take a photo on my foil.

then you get beautiful angles like this! surfer girl surfing so good!

then i go out and do a big cutback.

and shoot from the other side. it’s crazy how foiling and shooting can be so challenging and so fun at the same time!

a wonderful 11 days of Christmas boot camp! huge improvements and Nao-san is reborn! good job girl!

checked out Diamond Head this evening and the waves were perfect!

i can’t believe i was doing a cutback earlier this morning at Bowls, and then late this evening at Diamond Head. a crazy long day!

although it’s December, it still feels like Summer. the endless Summer…

December 27, 2018 Hawaii Surf Report


Always a beautiful sunset at Diamond Head…

Good morning 6:15am.
North shore head high and clean. Getting bigger tonight.
Ala Moana waist high and clean. Very high tide.
Diamond Head chest high and best in town. Super clean.
Light winds so perfect morning conditions everywhere.
Sunny and warm. Rain coming.
Going foiling and diving.
Have a wonderful day!