Nao-san can be a photographer! and also a Tako diver! she actually took these photos…

it takes about 10 seconds up to a minute to get a tako out of the hole. so just because you can dive 20′, that doesn’t mean you can catch a tako. getting to the bottom is the easy part, getting the tako out is the tricky part.

in this case, it took a total time of 1 minute for everything. i’m still trying to get smarter than the tako…

then the worst thing that can happen is the tako squirting its ink on you and swimming away.

but if you just keep calm, you will bring home dinner…

had an amazing surf this morning before the sun came up. we got hungry so headed to the Original Pancake House. my favorite!

no, this is not whipped cream. this is butter! yummy!!! sometimes you have to eat like an American. haha. i couldn’t do anything after i ate all this. Nao-san must have slept good on the flight back to Japan…

did you guys recognize a new sticker on Seth’s board during the Pipeline Masters? i sure did…

so i go to his house today and see a brand new truck in front. no way???

so happy to see big companies in Hawaii supporting and sponsoring Hawaiian pro surfers. i have lots of respect for Servco Chevrolet in Waipahu for sponsoring my nephew Seth Moniz! this kid won’t let you guys down… and let me know when you have an extra truck for his Uncle Kirby? haha…

5-73!

Good morning 5:10am.
North shore 4-6′ and perfect.
Ala Moana knee waist high and perfect.
Diamond Head chest high and clean.
No wind so nice morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going dawn partol.
Have a wonderful day!

Nao-san got a freak set that came right to her for her Christmas present this morning! it was so beautiful on this 25th day of December…

this year is coming to an end. lots of things happened this year and i usually reflect during this last week of the year. gets kind of emotional at times but there is always a light at the end of the tunnel. that’s the light i always see…

this year will make a full year since i started my new hobby. i feel like i’m on top of the world. but as good as life is, shit happens. yesterday, we almost lost a local surfer friend at Bowls. watching him lie there motionless holding on to life was hard to see. it took surfers, lifeguards, firemen, and doctors working like a team to save his life. lucky, he survived to see another Christmas day. driving home from the hospital last night was very emotional. i thought about my family, i thought about my friends, and i thought about how precious life is. and i also thought how important it is to tell the people you love that you love them. so hey you guys and girls, i’m telling you right now that i love you!