180 photo bomb again!


i just made my personal world record! i got the 180 degree shot for the 2nd time! last time was sunset, this time was Christmas sunrise!

i’m pretty sure Nao-san won’t forget this Christmas!

lot more calm, and lot more happy!

when i’m foiling ahead of this wave, i still have to look forward so i’m just pointing the camera behind my head. i’m getting better and better too!

Nao-san is keeping pretty calm when this is all happening. i’d be freaking out if someone was foiling around me! haha.

sunny, warm, and happy!

this was the last shot and it was my turn to ride the wave a little longer and pump back out to the lineup. so easy!

double peace! good job again Nao-san!

99% of restaurants are closed on Christmas day. BUT, if you look good, you will find a rare gem that is open for lunch.

so good to see Tetsu-san at Bowls. super cool legend from Wakayama!

Happy Christmas Day!

good morning, first i’d like to say Merry Christmas to all my family and friends around the world. hope you’re having a merry day!

back to yesterday. Haru-san with the perfect view!

a man who loves to surf and loves to share his experiences with his family.

Nanako-chan and Take-kun enjoying the moment.

Nanako-chan is 17 years old and speaks very good English. and surfs super good too. it was her first time!

good surf, good smile.

older sister Tooko-chan did really good too for her first time.

super nice smile after a super nice ride.

then Mommy Shoko-san rode some long ones too.

i just love to see such happy faces.

then little 10 year old Take-kun was super stoked surfing today. look at his cute smile!

such an energetic kid…

bigger wave for Haru-san!

and big smiles…

a kid with the best view in the world.

one happy family!

snorkeling in the worlds biggest pool!

and napping in the worlds biggest pool. haha.

then playing in the salt water pool.

cool photo of Father and Son. thank you to the Matsuhiro-san family for the amazing day!

December 25, 2018 Merry Christmas Surf Report!


Christmas Eve 2018…

Good morning 6am.
North shore 2-4′ and coming up. Clean.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing then relaxing.
Have a wonderful Merry Christmas Day!