check out this cool photo i took of Nao-san yesterday at sunset. i took off behind her on my foil.

then i sped up in front and this was my view.

then as i was right in front, it looked like i would get hit, but Nao-san knew not to look at me.

then i made it to the right side of her.

then this is the last photo. can you believe i got all these different angles on one wave? yup, i’m probably the first foiling photographer in the world! haha. nice surfing girl!

then today was one of longest Christmas Eve’s i ever had. started off with the local surfer duck greeting the kids.

had an amazing day with the Matsuhiro-san family! we all surfed in the morning.

then ate crab curry for lunch.

then jumped on Mayuki for a family cruise out at sea.

then back to the pool to watch Aquaman Take-kun.

like i said, today was a very long day as many things happened. more of today to follow…

today started off with a challenge. after watching the whales jumping, we jumped into Diamond Head! waves were so fun!!!

got super hungry after all that paddling so went for a locomoco.

locomoco with brown rice from Diamond Head Grill is the best on the island!

took the Harley out for an afternoon freedom run!

then went surfing again with Nao-san. this time at Bowls until dark! it was so beautiful watching the sunset while riding waves.

want to thank Shin-san for the treats! good for after work snack time!

want to say thanks to the girls the other night. had a great time laughing and taking story…

another tsunami hitting Indonesia. it’s so crazy how close it was to our surf trip this April. kind of a scary thought to tell you the truth…

this band was playing live as the tsunami hit. absolutely no warning.

over 200 killed and that number will rise. natural disasters are happening more frequently. something is wrong with this world and i’m very concerned. hope they find survivors…

The evening golden light…

Good morning 6:10am.
North shore shoulder high and clean.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head shoulder high and windy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Rainy morning becoming sunny later.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!