want to thank Nao-san and her family for the wonderful treats from Japan! hope to go to Niwa very soon!!!
but for now, Nao-san and i are enjoying the slow life here in Hawaii. pulled up to Diamond Head this morning and it was freaking beautiful! nice waves, sunny, and 2 whales jumping right out in front.
much calmer, and much happier. this is the Hawaiian style surfing life…
i’m so happy that i can see a different angle of surfing now that i have my foil. i can ride in front of people and leave no track. higher up and drone like photos like this. so stoked.
Nao-san surfing better each day. she is completely hooked on surfing!
good to see my friend Shane out there never giving up on the foil. progression…
i pulled up to Bowls this morning and my local friend gave me a Christmas present. “You should have been here yesterday.” so cool because i feel like this every single day…
you should have been here yesterday.” Maki-san and Nao-san know that pretty well…
Should have been here Yesterday!
Surfers Coffee Eye
opps, forgot to upload this. here it is.
went to stop by Surfers Coffee in Wahiawa on the way out to the North shore. good place to get the caffeine buzz!
i can sit in here all day long looking at all the classic photos.
especially this one of Tony Moniz at Pipeline in the 1980’s. classic!
if you go to the North shore on the weekends, you should try the hulihuli chicken!
just the smell will make you salivate.
and on the way back to town, stopped by Whole Foods in Kakaako. so big!
Nao-san has the newest iPhone. better than mine and much clearer photos. makes me want to get one. check out these photos she took.
surfer Santa? haha…
i love VW classics! wait to you see what my brother and I just bought! you’re going to freak!!!
lunch time at the most beautiful underground park on the North Shore.
iPhone and hulihuli chicken magic!
went to the factory. see the eye looking at you? better be good! haha…
December 23, 2018 Hawaii Surf Report
Live your life: Take more risks!
Good morning 5:15am.
North shore head high and perfect.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing somewhere.
Have a wonderful day!
