thank you Saori-san for the beautiful view from Hiroshima!

someday i’ll do that hike too! the air must be so fresh!

i was looking at my brothers iPhone and something seemed strange. do you think so too?

look at the new VW Dunebuggy! a pretty fun looking car!

i was in Waikiki late last night. i couldn’t believe how many people were walking on the streets. tourism is booming in Hawaii!

A beautiful Hawaiian sunset…

Good morning 6:15am.
North shore 2-3′ and clean.
Pipeline Masters OFF!
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head shoulder high and rough.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going ocean and ocean all day long.
Have a wonderful day!

once a month, i have a hand roll party at my house. rolling up what ever you want in rice wrapped with nori. it’s amazing!

when i woke up, i looked at Pipeline and said “no contest today.” then i went foiling. got back home at 9am and found out the contest is on standby? what??? i couldn’t believe it! the WSL’s thinking is to run as many heats as possible because the waves are going to get huge on Sunday and Tuesday. probably out of control huge! so here’s my thinking, “what would you rather see? a contest held in chest high inconsistent waves like today? or a contest held in out of control crazy death defying Pipeline that will happen this weekend? and before you answer that question, remember this is Hawaii, the North Shore, and Pipeline. and on top of that, there is a World Title on the line. now take your pick…”

i paddled out early in the morning to get some waves. there were some head high sets and it was very challenging! surprisingly, there were only 2 girls out there. respect!

then came home and ate a custom made chazuke from the leftovers. so good!

then got a call from Tony for a foil session so headed back to Diamond Head. he was waiting at Pipeline all day long because the contest was on standby. must have felt really good when he foiled his first wave…

i did my first full round house cutback today! it totally felt like surfing!

we had so much fun that we ended up paddling in at dark. so happy day!