
had a long day yesterday so needed a glass of whisky to slow my mind down. sipped it slowly and i felt like i was instantly in peace.

gosh, beautiful whisky in a beautiful whisky glass.

so good to see Benji Brand winning a wildcard for the 2nd year in a row. i’d be scared if this kid was in my heat. i’ll bet anyone he will beat the world champion contender Felipe Tolido in round 2.

so good to see the kids being role models to other kids.

and so good to watch the contest with my niece and grand-niece. Kelia and Kaira…

the next Kelia Moniz? maybe…

last, did you hear about the new surf movie called “Skin Deep?” yes, it’s about a girl surfing naked. that is what you call FREEDOM!!!
Intact Skin Deep
December 14, 2018 Hawaii Surf Report

Molokai Sweet Lifestyle…
Good morning 6am.
North shore down. Chest high and Pipeline Masters OFF!
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going foiling.
Have a wonderful day!
Front Row Billabong House

once i found out the Pipeline Masters is on, i headed out during rush hour traffic to watch the boys heats.

Coach Rainos Hayes with Benji Brand and Seth Moniz. today wasn’t Pipeline, it was a crazy beach break. hard to have a game plan…

this is Seth’s first ever heat in a WCT event. today was the 1st round so nobody loses. winner goes to round 3 and the other 2 go to round 2. so not too much pressure…

kind of a bummer to see junky conditions like this. on a scale of 1 to 10, i’d say Pipeline was a 2. junk wind, junk sandbar, and junk weather. but this is the life of a competitive surfing…

Seth has a huge support group. he’s got his family and the whole state of Hawaii cheering for him. i’d have to say that Kelia Moniz is the loudest, then i’m a close second. haha.

Seth didn’t win his heat so that means he’s into round 2. good in a way because he gets to surf another heat with only one other guy out. and he has another chance to take down a giant.

Maki-san front row at the Billabong House…

another long drive home but super excited to jump into the ocean. there was only 2 other guys out! i scored!!!

the Pipeline Masters should be on again this Sunday. the first 2 heats will be the one to watch. Benji Brand and Seth Moniz have absolutely nothing to lose, and everything to gain. i can’t wait!


