Love one another…

Good morning 5:30am.
North shore almost flat. Huge swell coming Monday.
Honolua Bay Womens WCT will be ON Monday! And maybe WCT Jaws too!
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and little bumpy.
Light winds at 10mph.
Sunny and very warm.
Going to the ocean.
Have a wonderful day!

i looked all over the island yesterday for something to foil. i was willing to drive anywhere but the best spot happened to be 10 minutes away from my house. lucky me…

i’ve been surfing with Tony ever since i was 18 years old. we chased 40′ waves together and had some of the most craziest surf sessions that were never documented. mostly because there weren’t any photographer crazy enough to paddle out to spots Tony surfed. it was pretty much life or death every time i surfed with him, but that made me stronger. and most important, that made me connect with the ocean. so 30 years later watching Tony flow so gracefully over the ocean is awesome.

when i paddle out to any spot on the island, i can tell automatically who’s a tourist and who’s a local. most tourists are cool, but some can be idiots. so after having an incident with an idiot last week, it was nice to meet a Japanese tourist super stoked on surfing. smiling the whole time and just respecting all the locals around him. whoever taught this guy mannerism did a good job.

you respect locals, locals respect you. so simple. sorry i forgot your name but thank you for introducing yourself to me. hope this photo finds you!

i see dogs on the beach waiting for their surfer owner all the time. and each time i see it, i think about Hachiko.

the fun part of surfing Diamond Head is hiking back up the mountain. just ask Tony.

it’s like a full workout! when you get to the top, you’re so exhausted that you can’t even talk. haha.

took photos of random surfers enjoying Waikiki on this Thanksgiving Day.

it was absolutely so beautiful!

i saw 2 Japanese longboard girls out that were having a great time. glad you’re loving paradise!

first, i want to thank each and every one of you who supported Seth Moniz all these years. he couldn’t have done it without all the love and support.

and want to thank you for all the phone calls, text messages, and congratulations i got from all over the world. we are all in this together as so many people love this kid.

and thank you to my bank for giving me popcorn.

and want to thank all the ladies and Takahashi-san last night for the wonderful dinner. i am very thankful for my true friends that have been supporting me throughout the good and bad. that’s the true meaning of a friendship.

and want to thank Tony for joining me this morning for our wonderful session at Diamond Head.

and want to thank my family for all the love and support. we had a blast this afternoon in Waikiki.

so cool to see Micah and his beautiful daughter Kaira sharing a wave for the first time. a very precious moment.

and Kelia and Acacia loving the moment.

and shared my last wave with Tony and Tammy. today was a day to be very thankful of everything and anything. Happy Thanksgiving!