woke up early this morning and it wasn’t easy leaving the house because today was the coldest morning in a very long time. but once i hit the ocean, everything warmed up. foiled Diamond Head and i have to say that the conditions were absolutely perfect!

came home and made myself a tasty avocado toast lunch with mugicha. so delicious!

then i looked over and over at my new board. brand new and looks so good that i don’t even want to wax it up yet.

this one is a 5’1 and i already know it’s going to be magic.

then as the sun set, i jumped in at Diamond Head again. waves were coming up and absolutely perfect!

i was serious when i said i didn’t want to wax up my new board so i rode this magic one. paddled out, caught 5 waves in 20 minutes, and rode my last one all the way to the beach. it’s amazing how fast i can satisfy myself recently!

the sun set and i watched the lucky surfers enjoying a very rare uncrowded evening. this morning had 50 guys out, this evening only had 10. tomorrow expect 70 in the morning and 40 in the afternoon….

it is really sad watching the fire in California destroying whole communities. 9 people dead and it’s far from over. very sad.

and it’s sad to hear of people loosing everything they ever owned. it’s like a real life horror movie unfolding right in front of their eyes.

more sad news about that marine who walked into a college bar and shot everybody. 12 people died in that one. nowhere in this world is safe anymore.

and sad to hear that the hotel strike is still going on after a month. feel sorry for the workers, and feel even more sorry for the tourists.

and feel sorry for the first Victoria Secret model from the Philippines. she’s getting bashed on social media because she’s only half Filipino. half is good because she’s got her whole heart for her country. that’s what counts.

what is trust? trust is letting your friend foil straight to you and watch him foil inches by. that is trust.

i could feel the surge from the foil pass by my legs. if Carter made a little mistake, he could have cut my head or legs in half. and i’m not joking. after that, i thought i was freaking crazy to just sit there taking this clip of him!

so much little things that affect the way you foil. i’m still trying to figure it out and perfect it. and have fun in the meantime…

***my friend Rod just started foiling. he told me “wow, every time i paddle out to a crowded spot, everybody leaves after they see me fall on my first wave.” haha. i thought that was so funny!

Wow, look at the new Electric Harley Davidson!

Good morning 5am.
North shore 3-5′ and super onshore junky.
Ala Moana waist high and super clean.
Diamond Head chest high and best spot today.
North winds at 15mph.
Clouds, rain, and sunny later.
Going foiling.
Have a wonderful day!