Akemi-san’s first wave yesterday! she surfed a few times before but only stood up on one wave. so getting up on her very first wave must have felt like magic!
if i could read her mind, she would be saying “I’m Loving it!”
and it was Chiyoko-san’s second time surfing with me. way more waves and way more smoother.
and if i could read her mind, she would be saying “I’m Loving it!”
thank you to the wonderful Tanaka-san family for being such happy and positive people! hope you enjoyed your Hawaiian vacation!!!
i better get back to our Sumatra trip before i forget what ever happened??? all i remember is glassy mornings with nobody but us around…
Matsu and i shared some epic sessions.
and we shared some epic waves too! this was the first day i took out my foil, and my last day. why? because i didn’t want to kill myself or any of my friends. i was still a beginner and i forgot that the nearest hospital is 8 hours away. and that’s if you can even call that a hospital. for any foilers that want information about foiling in Sumatra, here is my advise. Sumatran waves are very powerful and very shallow. don’t be a fool. leave your foil back home and surf it instead. i’m lucky i didn’t have to learn the hard way. and Matsu either. haha…
Kimura-san always with the classic t-shirts. “I’m Loving it.” but i’m pretty sure Ronald McDonald isn’t too happy about it…
We’re Loving it!
August 29, 2018 Hawaii Surf Report
Flying over Sand Island…
Good morning 5:45am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean offshore winds.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Cloudy morning becoming sunny and warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!
Molokai Popper
super lucky to surf Rockpiles with nobody out! Tani-san and i had it to ourselves this morning for 2 hours!
yeah, i’d be smiling too. haha. waves came up so we just took turns riding wave after wave.
and turn after turn…
after 3 days of surfing, Tani-san’s level went way up. so smooth and so controlled.
cutback after cutback, this is the way to surf!
hot pho for lunch. thank you Tani-san for the last 3 lucky surf sessions! hope to surf with you in Shikoku someday!!!
then picked up the girls for the afternoon session. more good waves, and amazing long rides…
whenever i go traveling, i always buy something. it’s just a way of supporting their economy, and it’s just a way of remembering that specific trip. so when i walked into a small shop in Molokai, this fisherman was selling fishing lures he custom made. this one was made out of koa wood and was so beautiful.
it’s called a popper and when i reel in my big Ulua with it, i will email Natog the photo. but for now, i keep it on my desk because it makes me want to go back there soon…
