Tani-san surfing so good! i took him to 2 spots yesterday morning and let him choose which one. he chose the better spot for sure! look how perfect it was!

smooth faces for smooth turns. awesome style!

i couldn’t help but ride a few of my own. but gosh i wish i had a foil on this board!!! haha…

great surfing again Tani-san!

i really don’t like seeing doctors. and i really don’t like walking down these halls at hospitals because it makes me so nervous. and i especially don’t like being scolded by my doctor. he’s been calling me for the past 6 years to come in for a checkup. i told i’m i’m so sorry but i’m the kind of guy that won’t go to the hospital unless i feel like i really have to. so the next time i go, i’ll be going in for my eye surgery. until then, i’m going to continue enjoying my life to the fullest. and by all means avoid hospitals!

i read this article about the locals in Molokai blocking that mega-yacht Ulysses that tried to dock in the Molokai harbor. the 116 meter $250 million yacht tried to go into Molokai but local surfers and fishermen lined up and blocked the harbor entrance. it was a show of pure power and not even the police could do anything. there is no way the locals of Molokai are giving in. i respect that so much because all the people want to do is keep Molokai, Molokai.

i go to the Molokai harbor often and if i seen this giant yacht tied up to the dock, i would throw up. it would definitely be the beginning to the end. and no way the Molokai people are willing to let that happen. they would rather die.

anyway, the article was very interesting and made me realize the only way to keep Molokai from being exploited is for the people to stick together. if i lived there, i’d be holding those guys hands and be blocking the channel entrance too.

last, want to thank Ryu-san for the heartwarming email. i’m so happy to see you and your sons having such a great time in Hawaii. i truly believe that those precious moments together will be everlasting memories. you are a great Father and have 3 amazing sons. keep on smiling and keep on surfing. see you boys again soon!

Small Surf, Big Smiles…

Good morning 5:45am.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Heavy rain, flooding, some sun, and very warm.
Going surfing and surfing and foiling.
Have a wonderful day!

yesterday afternoon surf with the boys. Hatsugai-san surfing so solid.

pretty stoked too.

so lucky we got the best waves of the day.

Mikio-san surfing so solid too!

it was his first time so this smile says it all.

perfect rides!

thank you Tokyo Football boys for the wonderful time!

then had another surf with Tani-san this morning. small waves but if you know where to go, you will have fun!

i had an eye doctor appointment this afternoon. i know my body well so when i seen my eye 2 weeks ago all red, i knew i had to get surgery again. so i went to see my doctor.

first, he scolded me. he said “where were you all these years? you’re supposed to come to your appointment in 2012!” i told him “sorry Doctor, i’ve been so busy.” he laughed. he checked my eyes and yeah, i’m going to have to get surgery again, but not so soon. then after the put all kinds of medicine in my eyes, i could barely see. after i left, i called him back to see if i was allowed to go surf. he said “up to you because you’re probably going anyway.”

so i grabbed my foil and paddled out to Diamond Head half blind. it’s amazing how good i foiled this evening. i felt like i was a seagull just flying so freely over the ocean. it was more off feel and i had the session of my life…