yesterday afternoon surf with the boys. Hatsugai-san surfing so solid.

pretty stoked too.

so lucky we got the best waves of the day.

Mikio-san surfing so solid too!

it was his first time so this smile says it all.

perfect rides!

thank you Tokyo Football boys for the wonderful time!

then had another surf with Tani-san this morning. small waves but if you know where to go, you will have fun!

i had an eye doctor appointment this afternoon. i know my body well so when i seen my eye 2 weeks ago all red, i knew i had to get surgery again. so i went to see my doctor.

first, he scolded me. he said “where were you all these years? you’re supposed to come to your appointment in 2012!” i told him “sorry Doctor, i’ve been so busy.” he laughed. he checked my eyes and yeah, i’m going to have to get surgery again, but not so soon. then after the put all kinds of medicine in my eyes, i could barely see. after i left, i called him back to see if i was allowed to go surf. he said “up to you because you’re probably going anyway.”

so i grabbed my foil and paddled out to Diamond Head half blind. it’s amazing how good i foiled this evening. i felt like i was a seagull just flying so freely over the ocean. it was more off feel and i had the session of my life…

look at Teppei-kun go! it’s been a year since we surfed and he didn’t forget a thing!

nice ride, nice paddle back out.

Eito-kun surfed so good too! i’ll never forget this kids name because his birthday is on 8/8. Eito/Eito! cool name…

nice ride, nice paddle back out.

it was 14 year old Yu-kun’s first time surfing. i was so impressed because he was stoked from the very first wave.

nice ride, nice smile…

cool Papa surfing with us too. Kondo-san is a cool surfer…

want to thank the Kondo-san family and friends and kids for the amazing surf session. so stoked to see you all again!

heard that the spot i surfed was the biggest waves on the island for Hurricane Lane. maybe that’s why i was so happy when i came in about a mile away from the point. i haven’t been held underwater for that long in a very long time. it actually felt exciting trying to keep calm. that’s the cool thing about surfing. it makes me still feel like a kid…

everybody knows i don’t like to walk at all. but after a great surf session, i don’t mind walking forever. it gives me time to reminisce each and every golden moment…

The Hurricane Backswell. Only a lucky few surfed it!

Good morning 5:30am.
Almost flat.
Ala Moana knee high and clean.
Diamond Head waist high wind swell and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, and warm.
Going surfing and foiling.
Have a wonderful day!