I’m so happy in barrel this morning!!!

yesterday afternoon as i was about to close my eyes for my afternoon nap, Matchi texted me “2 feet and going out now.” what??? i jump in the car, speed down to the river mouth, and see Matchi surfing out there alone. i wax up my board, join him, and it was the 2 of us enjoying some peaceful surf time. the river was flowing so the water was freezing. it was raining so that made it worst. i didn’t bring a wetsuit with me because i thought it was going to be warm. big mistake! i surfed anyway. cold turned to warm as soon as i rode a wave. stoke!

always like to walk around the TSSC factory to check out what’s going on. so many magic boards everywhere! i look at the shapes, the glassing, the airbrush, and the excellent quality.

and also originality. very innovative.

then i go to Matchi’s room to bother him. we talk about boards, surfing, and surfing.

then i load up my mini van with 6 magic boards that i will be using for the next few days. can’t wait!

it’s amazing on all the things that come from the deep mountains out to the oceans river mouths. if i had a truck, i’d take this tree home, turn it upside down, and make a nice glass table out of it. so cool!

and it’s amazing how just a simple front of a house can capture my eyes. deep japan and i love everything about it.

i was sitting in a bar in the big city drinking a beer and people watching. these 2 girls on the table next to me went to the restroom. one of them left her bag right here just like this. nobody around to watch it for her. they were gone for 5-7 minutes. i was thinking to myself, “it’s incredible how japanese have so much trust in this country.” in any other country, this bag would be gone in 1 minute. but being the guy i am, i watch it closely and make sure nobody steals it. nobody did. the girls walk back to the table and carry on their conversation like nothing happened. then it made me remember the first time i came to japan and forgot my camera in a curry shop in tokyo. i didn’t notice it was gone until 1 hour later. i returned anyway just to see if it was still there. and it was in the exact same place. since that day, i fell in love with japan and tell everybody that wonderful story.

shark attacks since 1900. might look like a lot of attacks but it’s not that much considering it being for 15 years. the United States (including Hawaii) have the most attacks, but Australia has the moth deaths. interesting graph.