ok, they just opened waikiki beach up again. the state claims that the 500,000 gallons of raw sewage didn’t make it into the ocean. they opened up waikiki and ala moana back up yesterday. here’s my take on it: i saw the raw sewage going into the ocean. i smelt the raw sewage going into the ocean. i was at the beach that morning and witnessed everything. not only going into the ocean, going all over ala moana park too. so the raw sewage went into the ocean. now the state is saying that only ala wai yacht harbor and kewalos harbor are still contaminated. what????? between ala wai and kewalos is ala moana beach park. but they said it’s safe? no way! we all know that the water in the two harbors has to go somewhere, especially after all the rain. it’s going into surf lineups which the state now says it’s safe. personally, i wouldn’t surf for at least 3 more days. the onshore winds is just letting the water sit. we need solid 3 days of trade winds and currents to blow the dirty water out to sea. then it will be safe. the ocean related businesses loses $1M a day when the beaches are closed. maybe that’s whey they reopened it so soon? my advise: stay out for 3 more days.

and get this!!! today, 1 million gallons or 3,785,411 liters of sewage just spilled into sandy beach!!! omg!!! unbelievable!!!! sandy beach is closed for now but knowing the state, it will reopen tomorrow. very sad to hear things like this. i’m glad i’m not in hawaii now. just way too sad.

instead i’m in japan blending in with millions of people at train stations. i love it!

was checking out Matsu’s new toy. i’m ordering mine right when i get back to hawaii. can’t wait.

thank you Kanae-san for sending me this photo. good thing Eri-chan in the back wasn’t naked because she was changing. haha! had a great 2 rounds of surfing in chigasaki. just like the good old days!

yesterday seemed like years ago but it was only yesterday. toilet water everywhere from waikiki to kewalos so we headed to diamond head. couldn’t believe how perfect and uncrowded it was.

Yano-san getting ready for the epic glassy golden morning session. last year we surfed good bowls, this year, excellent diamond head.

for the past year, Yano-san has been practicing very hard. so when he caught his first wave, i seen him set the rail and surf 10x faster and better than before. i was so happy to see his level rise so fast!

super perfect long rides all morning long. it was a good call to go early because the winds came right at 9am as thought. by then, we had enough.

awesome surfing Yano-san! keep surfing hard and next year you will be doing big power off the lips. i know you can do it!

was happy to get a flight out of hawaii. right when i boarded the airplane, Kimura-san texted me “waves are head high and perfect!” omg, i was thinking about getting off the plane to narita and jumping on the flight to kansai. but i knew that would be way too selfish of me? haha. then i arrive at narita and get a text from Toda-san telling me the waves are good in shizuoka. now i’m so confused! haha.

activated my rail pass and was ready for anything.

but first, i had a dinner in chigasaki. was pretty cold!

and i was so thirsty i got off a stop to grab a tea. but i couldn’t tell which one was mugicha??? i didn’t want to put any caffeine in my body. so ended up passing on tea.

had an awesome dinner with my friends. thanks to you all for the wonderful night! Eri-chan, Kanae-san, Saito-san, Akko-chan, Naoka, Yuki-chan, Matsu, and Matsuo. you guys are like my family! thank you for all the years of putting up with my changing of the plans, and selfishness. i love you guys.

super good new restaurant in chigasaki. loved it.

and of course, all i want to eat is japanese food. that’s what i came here for! after dinner we were planning to drive to shizuoka. but instead, thought it would be better to get a few hours of sleep first.

we make the plan to pick up Eri-chan at 4:30am. of course she was still sleeping and didn’t answer her phone. during that time, we find out from Toda-san that shizuoka is small and onshore. so we drive right in front and see something very wonderful.

perfect waves in chigasaki! omg, we park the car, paddle out early, and have the dream session. head high and barreling. i surfed this local spot for the past 23 years and today was absolutely the best of the best. we were back in by 8am and all totally stoked on surfing, and totally stoked on life!