Nice Wipeout Renta-kun!
Good morning 6am.
South shore chest high and morning sickness.
Diamond Head windy side shore.
Waikiki clean off shore.
Trade winds at 25mph.
Rainy morning becoming sunny this afternoon.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

gosh, i had another amazing day with the wonderful Oshima-san family!!! surfed awesome waves, ate awesome food, and had an awesome time. such a kind and happy family!

i woke up at 6am this morning and the headline news read:
Missing SUP Paddler Off Waikiki. i told myself “omg, not another one???” yesterday at 4pm, a tourist rented a SUP board in waikiki and paddled out. he didn’t come back at sunset time to bring the board back so they called the search and rescue. they searched all over last night and couldn’t find him. so this morning when i woke up, he was still missing. i thought to myself “should i go out and look for this guy? i kind of knew where he would be because of the winds yesterday. i was thinking 14 hours had passed so he must be around barbers point. and once he passes there, he’s gone forever. 1 hour later, luckily he was found by the coast guard. this tourist from oregon is one lucky man.

the coast guard found him by ewa beach which is way past the airport. pulled him out of the water, took him to the hospital, and gave him lots of water. i’m sure he had a lot of time to think about his life last night.

ok people. this is a SUP. sitting on the beach at waikiki, it looks way too tempting. pay $30 and paddle this beautiful board into the beautiful ocean. the hidden danger is once you pass a certain point off shore, the wind will take you out to sea and you will never make it back in. going out is so easy as the wind will blow you out and you will think you are in great condition. BUT, try to turn around and you won’t make it back. i’ve seen it over and over, rescued so many people, and will still see it again and again. there are only 2 lifeguard towers in waikiki looking after thousands of people. add in the evening sunshine glare, it’s almost impossible to see farther than the waves. lifeguards finish work before dark so you’re on your own. my advise has always been: don’t even try it. hire a proper guide if you want to venture out in the ocean. the ocean is the ocean and it can change in minutes. this man was lucky he didn’t get blown past barbers point. this man is lucky hawaii has the best search and rescue in the world. and this man better thank god he was given another chance to live. oh, and this man better thank the tax payers of hawaii because a search and rescue operation like this costs over $100,000.
please surf and paddle safe.

the first day on my el salvador trip, i walked on the beach looking for waves, looking for a guide, and looking for a beer. i found them all.

sunset time on one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. being alone to think about this wonderful world we live in.

i remember playing in the shore break by myself. i don’t know anybody, nobody knows me. i’m just a stranger in a foreign country so who cares what i do. back home in hawaii, i’d be considered weird rolling around in the shore break alone at sunset time. haha.

then the 3 amigos came from mexico. i dragged them out early morning for the sunrise surf session. hard getting out of bed and walking down the beach in pitch dark. but once we get out and see the sky turning orange, it’s all worth it!

Satoko looking into the beauty of the sea.

Ambo-san from the central america’s version of the land of the rising sun.

i did yoga every evening on the beach. just a few poses to get the blood flowing. then all i needed was one beer to make me feel dizzy and go to sleep early. namaste!

really miss my amigos. that was such an awesome trip that just happened for the right reason.
ok, i check my youtube comments once in a while. i’m over 13 million views on the vids. thousands of comments but a few i will answer too:
Comment: Hi Kirby, I am a huge fan of your blog and I admire the Surfing Lifestyle. I also try to go surfing as often as possible, always saving money for my next surftrip.I am wondering how do you afford your Lifestyle and all the surftrips and plane-hopping you do ?
Thank you
Noel
Reply: hi Noel, thanks for the comment. i’ve been traveling for the past 25 years so i have the travel system down. i’ve been saving money since i started working at 13 years old. luckily, i’ve been sponsored for 20 of the 25 years so my sponsors sent me around the world all expenses paid. now days, i work hard, save money, and travel as much as possible. i feel like i have to do it while i am still young and have energy. travel as much as possible, learn while you’re gone, and cherish every moment and every barrel like it’s your last.
Comment: Looks like the perfect place to live ! ! !
Just look at the colour of the sea !
Feeling like I wasted my life watching this …
Reply: you are not wasting your life. jump on a plane now and experience the perfect place to live, Hawaii!
Comment: I Hate you! Beautiful surf break and beautiful surfer chicks!
Reply: please don’t hate me. love the surf, and love the beautiful surfer chicks!
Comment: MAHALO A NUI LOA KIRBY FUKUNAGA BRUDDHA ! ! !
WHAT A COOL JOURNEY SITTING HERE AND WATCHING A HAWAIIAN DREAM, MINE TOO!
ALOHA DA HUI O HE´E ´NALU ! ! !
ROHLF “THRUSH” PT BRAZIL = “SABIAH”
Reply: Gracias bro!