Nice timing.
Good morning 6:15am.
Ala Moana head high sets and morning sickness.
Diamond Head 4′ and side shore.
Waikiki chest high and perfect.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Super sunny and warm day.
Surfing all day.
See you in the water!

south swell not as good as expected but still good enough for me. long waits but it’s always fun waiting and talking to friends in the lineup. taking turns surfing and taking turns telling stories. a great way to spend a morning.

seen Masa-san the other morning so took this photo of him. cool guy, cool surfer.

did you hear about the huge last south swell that hit mexico a few days ago? well, Josh, Seth, and Tony Moniz booked a flight and went over to surf that big swell. i was wondering why nobody invited me? haha. anyway, look at Joshua in a very thick barrel. this video clip is freaking amazing! now i know where i’m going on my next trip!

heard about Aston Martin designing a new power boat? omg, this is a beauty!

no, this is not a car, this is a boat. a very nice boat. and very fast too.

52 knots to be exact. that would get me from waikiki to molokai in 30 minutes.

every time i see this classic Harley Davidson on the road, i have to stop and take another look. i love it!

check out Barbie hanging on for the ride. the guy told me he bought this bike for $2,000. what a deal!

last, Cinco de Mayo is over so please put away the tequila! haha.

gosh, it seemed like years ago since i went to El Salvador. it’s only been 2 months and so many things have happened since. so before i totally forget that trip and all my amigos, i better catch up on posting some of the photos i took. my 2 el salvador guides, photographers, drivers, and bodyguards. the 2 coolest kids you’ll ever meet. so pure and i hope they stay that way.

no supermarkets or costco anywhere near. if you want to eat chicken, you eat your pet chicken.

and if you want to eat a goose, you eat your pet goose.

there is a fish market on the pier. pretty cool place to check out the daily’s fresh catch.

gosh, looks so fresh and so good!

i ordered a deep fried largo for lunch and it was amazing!

some people dive off their boards, some people fall off their boards. the best way to jump off so you don’t get dragged on the reef is to press the eject button. jump straight up and straight down. penetrate the water just enough so you can go under the wave and pop up the back side. this will prevent you from getting dragged forward with the wave. in this case, if i got dragged any further, i would have been stuck on the dry reef. so this kind of saved me from the reef. i use it only sometimes depending on the situation. and it’s actually pretty fun.