been riding my Matchi Single Fin by TSSC on the small days. just something different and something that reminds me of surfing 30 years ago. back to the basics.

i let so many people try this board and pretty much get 100% positive feedback.

the difference between a single fin and the more popular truster mainly is drive. you have to put the board on the rail for it to work. and when you go from one turn to another, it keeps the flow.

going to use it again tomorrow because the waves should be dropping off more. then on thursday, another big south swell so going to get back out my thruster.

i went to Palau to spear fish back in 2011. one of the guys on the trip was a doctor from Guam, his name was Mike. on one of the dives, we all got split up because of the strong current. the boat picked us up one by one but we couldn’t find Mike. then we heard a “help, help, help!” and seen Mike in the far distance waving his hands in the air. we speed over to get him and it looked like he just seen a ghost. turned out to be a big shark trying to attack him. Mike was totally freaked out, stunned, and exhausted. he sat up against the cooler thanking God to still be alive. being the photographer on that trip, i shot this photo. it was the moment. have you ever thought you are going to die before? well, this is the look when almost facing death. it’s so calm, relieved, and will change your life forever.

This afternoon surf session.
Every day like this! Paradise!

want to thank Kenna-san for the great time in hawaii!

and want to thank Marki-san for the great time too!

summer is in full swing! i think the best summer in a very long time. the waves and weather have been just so perfect!

i’ve been paying more attention to my yard recently. just cleaning up and planting new life everywhere. and when you wake up, leave the house, and get a fresh scent of a sweet gardenia, it can make your day a whole lot better.

been seeing some funky geckos too.

i didn’t know geckos only had 4 fingers?

ok, it’s about that time of year again. a time when i start to get excited about surfing japan. it’s rainy season now so hopefully the rivers will break open, then come late july, maybe a typhoon will push perfect swells for perfect waves. this was somewhere in wakayama last year. this year, who knows? hopefully my friends will keep me posted and share with me some of the best waves in the world. i’m already packing! haha.