for those of you who don’t know, World Champion Carissa Moore isn’t a small girl. she’s pretty solid. so for Kelia to carry her up from the beach to the stage, it takes a lot of power. look good and the guy on the other side carrying Carissa up looks like he’s struggling more. haha. so for those of you who don’t know, World Champion Kelia Moniz isn’t a weak girl. she’s got a strong body, strong mind, strong soul, and a super strong right hook. better be careful.

i was so excited to wake up this morning and eat my japanese power breakfast. after this, i went to meet my friends down at bowls. nobody showed up? but it was ok because i rode all the waves i would have given them anyway. the locals told me today was the best it’s been in days. score!

then went for a ride on Mayuki to warm her up. she looked like she needed a bath so i scrubbed her down really good. now she’s sparkling clean!

then i washed the truck. all the time thinking to myself “if you love something, take care of it.” nobody believes i had this truck for the past 4 years. still looks pretty dam new.

glad to be back home to the clear blue sky! feel so fresh again and ready to live freely!

went to pick up Ochiai-san for an afternoon surf. she just got off the airplane this morning from japan and we ended up surfing for so long. great surfer and great rides! shaka girl!

just uploaded the photos that my boys in el salvador took of me. 2,036 to be exact. that’s not including the video. now i can sit back, enjoy the shots, and relive every barrel, every turn, and every wave. gosh, i want to go back there already!

so many different applications for iphone are coming out. been using them for places to stay, and for getting around. take Uber for example. it was the first time i used it in new york. click on pick me up and a private car with driver will come and get you within minutes. got a ride to the airport for $60 and would have cost me more if i caught a taxi. then right after i get dropped off, i get sent the bill and receipt. pretty cool! i’ll use it again for sure.

omg, i was so happy to get off the airplane yesterday in hawaii. it always feels good to be back home but the feeling gets better and better with each trip.

i was glad to see my yamaha still in the same place i parked it. the bummer thing is i lost my sunglasses in el salvador so i rode on the freeway home with no eye protection. that hurted.

when i got home, the first thing i wanted to eat was hot cooked japanese rice. omg, it was so good!

the second thing was miso soup. gosh, i really think i’m japanese.

then watched the finals of the contest in australia. hawaiian surfer carissa moore won and i was surprised to see kelia carrying her up the beach. hawaiians supporting hawaiians. i love it!
well, back to life, back to reality. start work today and will be working almost everyday. but guess what? i’m looking forward to it! i love my job and love it even more after a long satisfying vacation. see you here in paradise!

Salute! Cool Job!
Good morning 6am.
North shore big and ugly. 8-10′ and onshore.
South shore waist high and clean off shore. Small South/West swell coming today. North/North/East winds at 15-25mph.
Clouds, sun, showers, rainbows.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!