Hot and dirty!!!!

Takei-san getting ready for the morning session.

this is a really good bottom turn. knees are bent and his eyes looking where he wants to go.

Ito-san evening 4 hour marathon surf session.

good lighting, and pretty big wave!

this is a duck dive in hawaii. and japanese call it dolphin. feels so good!

6.5 hours surfing brings happiness, and sunburn. haha. i’m so burnt!!!

thank you Ito-san for the green tea snack! i can’t wait to try it!

hey Salina, you surfed so good the other day! score!
looked at my schedule just now and it’s looking like i’ll be surfing at least twice a day until september 18th. then i’m jumping on an airplane. in fact, i’ll be jumping on 4 airplanes and going very far and very deep. then once i get on the boat, i’ll be in heaven for 12 days. i can’t wait!

Mother Nature is so Beautiful!
Good morning 5:30am.
South swell continues.
Shoulder high sets at Bowls. Super clean!
Diamond Head head high and good.
Light trade winds at 15mph.
Rain, clouds, but will become sunny.
Going dawn patrol surfing.
Have a wonderful day!