Our World is at WAR! OMG!
Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana: shoulder high and clean.
Diamond Head: head high and side winds. Afternoon better.
Waikiki: chest high and perfect.
Winds: trades at 20mph.
Weather: Super sunny.
Forecast: big storm and huge 10′ East swell on Friday.
Plan: Go Naminori all day!
Have a wonderful day!

The waves are pumping in Bali, Indonesia! 6′ Padang Padang and barreling!
http://live.ripcurl.com/padang-padang-live-webcast-2014.html

OMG, what another beautiful day! morning surf and wonderful memories. big hurricane coming so enjoy the beautiful weather while you can. come thursday night, it’s going to get ugly! keep calm, don’t panic!

i love to teach surfing. from the beginning to the end is so fun! most of the time i’m laughing because i know it’s going to be a great ride. but first things first. if you can’t surf on the sand, you can’t surf on the ocean.

i say this about 200 times/month. look forward!!!!! if you look forward, you will surf well. if you don’t look forward, you won’t surf well. pretty simple.

Watanabe-san got so much better than last year. just a very happy man and even happier on a surfboard.

Taka-san use to surf 35 years ago. this day was very nervous for him.

then when Taka-san caught his first wave, everything came back like it was yesterday. great riding!

Noe-chan surfed much better than last year too. great improvement and i could tell she was stoked just by her smile.

i like to ride next to people so i can coach them from the side. here i am yelling “LOOK FORWARD!!!” haha.

and you can’t get this photo anywhere else in the world. surfing with diamond head in the background. so beautiful!

shaka to you Watanabe-san! see you next week and get ready for some more fun surfing!

the smiles after surfing says a million words. thank you Watanabe-san, Michiko-san, Taka-san, Noe-chan, Pakana, and my cousin Daniel for taking these memorable photos.