Big waves and Big laughs

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wanted to thank Nanami-san for sending me these photos of the last swell. i remember pulling up to the beach and seen huge waves. normally a surf lesson would be cancelled but not this one. the 2 young boys came to hawaii for an experience and this was the day to make it happen. they were so nervous!
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we took this photo before we paddled out. Gavin and Liam getting ready for the big challenge.
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and after riding the biggest waves of their lives, it was all smiles on the way in. young Gavin just became a man.
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and Liam’s last wave was crazy! super big and as soon as he took off, he turned left and had the wave of his life! i had to congratulate him on that.
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and after, the boys were all smiles. gosh, i am sooooo black!!! haha.
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had a big TV shoot last week with a comedian from osaka. Masuda-san and made me laugh the whole entire session. i can’t wait to see it come out on TV. i’m sure you will laugh too! Ishikawa-san on the right is such a cool guy and great surfer. i love working with him. thank you both for a memorable day!

Aku Fever!

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my brother called me at night telling me the fish are biting. i drop everything and go fishing. yeah, i told you before that i quit fishing but i’m only human. i get excited so fast and i don’t want to miss a thing in life. so i get up 3am and head out to sea.
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just like surfing, getting out at first light is important.
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and yes! we hook up right away! a huge aku or katsuo. so stoked!!!
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so happy to get the fish in the cooler!
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then things slowed down so it was nap time.
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then both reels went off!!! wake up!!! double hit! one got off, and one got in the cooler.
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2 huge aku’s that will make a lot of people very happy, especially me. i’ve never seen aku’s this big before.
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my brother Mason, and our high school friend Ryan. great fisherman teaching me how to fish.
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i had 4 gold penn reels. i sold 2, and i kept 2. you just never know when the fish are biting and i must be prepared. i’ll have fresh katsuo tataki for the whole week!
great experience but i still prefer free diving. haha.

July 1, 2014 Hawaii surf report


Heads down!
Good morning 6:45am.
Small waves.
South shore waist high.
Diamond Head biggest at chest high.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!