Love from Kansai

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when i went surfing with Yumi-chan yesterday, i couldn’t believe how good she got! omg, from the first wave to the last, perfect surfing. the perfect style, bending her knees, looking forward, arms out, and little more weight on her back foot making the surfboard work best. i was really impressed as this girl from kansai has gotten so much more confident in surfing, and in life. great job Yumi-chan!
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and Yumi-chan brought me some cool gifts. she knows what i like.
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i have no idea what you call this but as soon as i pop one in my mouth, i get a juicy surprise! oishi yade!
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and Yumi-chan has been sending her love with others from kansai. she hand made eye pillows and collected donations for the people of tohoku. after 3 years, i’m so happy that there are people that never forgot. thank you all for still supporting tohoku!
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and this is a gift to Hiyori-chan from Yumi-chan. these 2 girls haven’t met before but the love and connection have been built. that’s what “ONE” is all about.
5 more days and counting. still don’t even know if i’ll get a flight out of hawaii because everything is fully booked next week. if i have to fly to africa to get to japan, i will. if there’s a will, there’s a way. i’m not even stressing out about it like i use to before because if it’s meant to be, it’s meant to be. if not, not. only time and effort will tell. and plus, i’m too busy this week to even be thinking about next week. live day by day right? well, i’m living minute by minute. haha.

March 26, 2014 Hawaii Surf Report


Cherry Blossom Season in Japan starts NOW!
Perfect timing!
I can’t wait!!!
Good morning 6:15am.
North shore 2-4′, offshore, clean, and rainy.
South shore chest high, clean, sunny, and nice.
Very light trade winds at 5mph.
Rainy in the North, Sunny on the South.
Going surfing all day.
Have a wonderful day!!!

Good and getting better!

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surfing with Komiya-san yesterday was so fun. he’s been surfing for 18 years and is still so excited on getting better. i saw him doing some super nice turns on super nice waves.
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the take off shot with diamond head in the background. a nice photo for every first time surfer in hawaii. it’s like me riding a wave with mt. fuji in the background in japan. just so special.
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even after 18 years of surfing, Komiya-san wants to get better so i was giving him some advise. keep your knees bent and push off the bottom turn. once you set up the perfect bottom turn, everything else will fall into place. good surfing dude!
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and always good to see bowls locals out every single day no matter what. Makana is one of the few that enjoys the waves from knee high to double overhead every single day of the year out at bowls.
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and Makana’s twin brother Nainoa surfing every single day out there too. cool brothers.
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hey Komiya-san, good surfing! i was so happy to see you paddling back out after every wave so happy. hope to see you again in hawaii and remember to keep your knees bent and keep on surfing. aloha!