My grand nephew Mateus!

did you hear about the elderly man that died in the hospital? the doctors pronounced him dead. they put him in a body bag. and later he woke up and said “let me out!” OMG! that’s crazy!

so happy to see the walls up on Davis’s house in cambodia.

i took this photo a while back of my friend Pakana after he speared this monster moana kali. this was at one of my secret spots near kewalo’s. now i feel like diving because i’m getting hungry for steamed fish.

ok, i just got invited on a boat trip. a boat trip i’ve been longing to go on. not the mentawai’s, not the philippines, but somewhere far more remote. i’ve been there once in my life and the waves weren’t the greatest that time. so this time, i’m expecting better waves as we search for big barrels. i can’t wait!

Poor sportsmanship. This is embarrassing!
Good morning 6:20am.
North shore GIANT!
15-18′ and only outer reef breaks.
South shore TINY! Knee high at most spots.
Diamond Head best at chest high.
Winds are light North/West at 5-10mph.
Weather is rain all day.
Work is surf. See you in the water.
Have a wonderful day!