i get up at 4:30am, check the waves, check the weather, and decide what to do. the weather seemed to be perfect with no rain in the forecast. so i washed, vacuum, and clean the truck at 7:45am. super stoked to have it sparkling clean!
then i drive down to waikiki at 12pm and guess what? rain!!! OMG! after today, i told myself that i will never wash the truck again until summer. but knowing me, i’ll probably wash it again tomorrow. haha.
had a long 3.5 hour surf session with Osaki-san. the waves weren’t the best but we were at the best spot for sure. tomorrow will be another hard call as these south/west winds are making choppy conditions all over. might have to dig deep and go secret spot on the other side of the island tomorrow. nobody knows but i’ll be the first to know at 6am sharp.
another beautiful ending to a great day. good night.
Weather Jinx!
Popeyes Lunch!
The best fried chicken in Hawaii!
Power and Balance
balance is the key to surfing. if you have good balance, you can surf. and if you don’t have balance, you can get it easily by surfing. one example of that is Inaida-san. i still can remember clearly the first time i took him surfing almost 3 years ago. he couldn’t paddle for a long period of time, and he had a hard time balancing on a surfboard. day by day, i could see the improvements. day by day, i can see the muscles forming. and day by day, i can see the confidence building. now, power and balance is a part of a lifestyle for Inaida-san. it’s an everyday routine that is making him younger and younger, and healthier and healthier. that’s freaking awesome!
speaking of power. Katsura-san is probably the strongest paddler i’ve ever seen. i’ve seen her paddle faster than a wave! and i’m not joking. so taking the long paddle out to a very secret spot was pretty easy for her. awesome photo by Yuki-san.
and want to thank Katsura-san for the snacks from japan! see you again soon!
Yumi-chan, thank you for sending me the encouraging emails. I really appreciate your kind words. Nice sunrise in the sunrise in Japan. We Are One! Take care and see you in Hawaii again!
