when i passed by Diamond Head this morning, i couldn’t believe how perfect it was! super good swell direction, perfect winds, and overhead rides lasting over 2 minutes. there were about 40 surfers out but more than enough waves to go around.

there was a kayak out in the deep blue ocean so somebody must have called 911. 3 fire trucks, police, and a lot of spectators were looking out at the kayak. i thought to myself, “oh, it must just be another crazy blue water diver with his kayak.” haha. his kayak was right on the ledge where the ono’s come in. from land, it looks crazy to see somebody way out there, but the diver probably didn’t even know anybody was looking for him. i was just happy to see the fire fighters doing their job of making sure everybody is safe. this is the part where hawaii is number one in the world.

Lighthouse has been the best spot by far on the whole island. i seen some solid 3′ sets breaking perfectly.

i took Sakamoto-san to bowls and we scored some awesome waves. i was so stoked to see him surfing much better than the time he came 2 years ago. surfing better and smiling more. this kid loves to surf.

then i went to pick up his father and we ate lunch. Mr. Sakamoto is a young 70 years old and super energetic. he’s worked his whole life and now is enjoying his retirement to come. a very kind man with a big heart. i really like this family a lot as i can feel the love. it’s just so amazing.

New dessert store open!
So good!

it took 3 days but finally my body and soul is back on hawaiian time. i was super tired, felt heavy, and functioned only about 75% ever since my long trip. but i woke up this morning at 5am feeling great. drank my kombucha, did my daily 200 push ups and yoga stretches/headstands, ate my power mentaiko breakfast, surfed 2 rounds, and didn’t need a nap. i feel so energetic and am glad to be back to my 100% active life. tomorrow morning same thing!

2 days ago was very cloudy but the cool thing about surfing is that clouds don’t matter. it’s still warm and fun. here is Inaida-san watching a longboarder riding a pretty good wave for a pretty cloudy day.

and here it is! the newly brightened rainbow tower! i can’t tell the difference.

and there it is! the 8 cranes used to make 8 more condos in an already crowded place. hello to more traffic!

i seen a japanese guy sitting on his red board waiting for a wave. i thought it would be a cool photo. and yes, it’s a cool photo.

and i still can’t believe how big and fresh the lobsters were yesterday. i’m going to save up some money, buy one, and ask Masako-san if she can make sashimi for me. haha.
the south swell continues, so does the weird winds, and so does the heavy fog. the tradewinds are coming back on sunday and i can’t wait to welcome back the clean air and off shore winds.