another shark alert! yesterday there was a 15′ tiger shark at lanikai beach. yeah, the same lanikai beach that tops the most beautiful beach in the world. not good publicity at all. but hey, remember that sharks can swim so if there is a tiger shark on oahu, it will hang out at every beach. just don’t look down. haha.

imagine coming to hawaii for the first time from sendai. for all of you who don’t know, sendai is very very cold. the water gets so cold that you need a 5mm dry suit with boots, gloves, and head cap. i surfed there in the summer and was cold. now here we are in march when hawaii is the coldest it ever gets. cold for us locals, but like an onsen for surfers from sendai. Iishi-san enjoying the day.

and if you are from sendai, you are hardcore. yeah, not too many can handle the cold water so if you surf, you must really love it. this is a cool photo of a cool guy! Go-Iishi-san!

sometimes i wear a hat because my face gets so burnt that it feels like it’s going to peel off. it gets in the way sometimes when i’m short boarding so i take it off, surf the wave, and put it back on. no, i’m not trying to act cool, i’m just trying to enjoy surfing without having my face peeled off from the hot sun in hawaii.

99 out of a 100 people i take surfing in hawaii tell me “i want to live here!” Iishi-san is just one of them. haha.
well, still some waves on the north shore. pipe had it’s moments this morning and there are more north/west swells expected. the south shore is still sleeping and trying to awake. a lot of hungry town surfers waiting and when the first overhead sets come, it’s going to get crazy! everybody go-naminori!

Abunai!
Good morning 6:20am.
North shore 4-6′ and looking pretty good. Pipeline barreling! South shore chest high and crowded! New overhead South swell tomorrow? Really? Winds are trades at 15-20mph.
Little clouds in the morning becoming super sunny!
Clean house and go surfing!
Have a wonderful day!

another super hot day in hawaii. perfect little waves in town, perfect sunny, and paradise.

had the full brunch yesterday with Ishii-san. so much food!

went to surf bowls this morning and seen a huge luxury yacht parked right out in front. seen the helicopter parked on the back too. Maki-san told me “motivation!” yeah, i’m motivated to get a big yacht, but not this big. it’s a pain in the ass just to maintain. i wonder who’s the owner of this one? it was a pretty sight to see while surfing and dreaming.

surfed with Kuki-san today. a super cool osaka chef that surfs really good.

Kuki-san has dreams and i hope it comes true because it will make many people in hawaii very happy!

fisheye from the water.

it was pretty crowded to day but everybody was sharing so it was cool. we caught some pretty good ones!

then i came home to babysit my grand nephew. so cute!!!

then he started to cry. i had to take a photo of him. haha.

he was climbing up my sofa looking out the window for mommy and daddy. only 8 months old. so cute!

wanted to thank Iishi-san for the leaf pie from sendai!