Ala Moana Bowls Channel.
Abunai means “Dangerous or Hatihati”

for the past year, i’ve always wanted to enjoy the japan surf culture. just jump in the car with friends, drive around, surf, eat, and laugh. i use to do this every year for the past 20 years but recently been so busy that i just didn’t have the time. so when i had a full free day, i called some friends for the surf report, got picked up in tokyo, and relived the japan surf culture that i love so much.

luckily on my last trip, i kept a full suit at a friends house in tokyo, and a surfboard in chiba. without one of the two, i can’t surf. this is my mobile brand new Dove Wetsuit, and my magic TSSC single fin. can’t live without them.

Go-Naminori blogger Dave Yamaya inspires me. his hard work, his family values, and his friendship is priceless. a hawaiian living the dream life in japan. this guy will be my friend forever.

for the past 2 weeks, chiba has been flat. lucky me again? i think so because the waves were perfect all day long. i waxed my board with the wrong wax so i slipped on almost every wave. and because i didn’t have a leash, i was swimming in the cold water for my board all morning. i felt like a beginner. haha.

Beach Press Eri-chan on the left, Hikaru-san on the right. this is part of the go-naminori team that is so precious! thanks girls!

then Kita-kun on the left, and Naoka on the right. Kita-kun is a really smart kid attending Keio University. he is an intern for go-naminori that does some english to japanese translations. hanging out with him was cool. Kita-kun’s dream is to become a pilot and i’m sure his dream will come true. Naoka needs to get away from his computer so whenever i get the chance to do a small surf trip in japan, he has to come. that’s part of the go-naminori company policy. surf first, work later.
i’m really happy that i got to hang out with my team for the whole day. we had such great conversations about life, about work, about future, and about friendship. as the president of go-naminori, these surf trips are mandatory so see you all again. surf your dream!

6:05 Surf Re-check.

Bowls head high and perfect. 8 surfers out.

Pipeline 4-6′ and clean. 15 surfers out.
Go-Naminori!