i come home the other day and check my mail. usually i just throw away and not even open what i think is junk mail. but this junk mail had a different smell. it smelt like money!!! so i open it and find 5 brand new crispy dollar bills. i still don’t know what this was actually for but i’m not complaining. i take the money, throw away the mail, and i’m hoping to get more. haha.
there is a really good authentic mexican restaurant in kalihi. we go there once in a while and that once in a while was last night. the ceviche is so good!
and some Bohemia beer to go down with it. perfect with my amigos!
usually i longboard when i’m working. i never just grab a longboard and go free surfing because i’m a short boarder. yesterday was my first time ever that i decided to longboard alone. and after catching all those perfect waves alone, i knew i made the right choice. as long as i’m riding a wave, i’m riding a smile. i was so happy and felt so free again! the ocean is were i belong. thank you again Inaida-san and Yuki-san for always taking such cool photos.
March 16, 2014 Hawaii Surf Report
Chinese military. Perfect salute!
Good morning 6:45am.
North shore 4-6′ and stormy. Windy and junky.
South shore tiny. Bowls flat to knee high and Diamond Head waist high.
Super windy 30-40mph North/East winds.
Sunny day with lots of huge rainbows.
Going storm surfing.
Have a wonderful day!
Kelia Moniz Autograph Session in Hawaii
i heard Kelia was back in hawaii for an autograph session at the new quiksilver store at kahala mall. i went to see her and i couldn’t believe how many people showed up. fans everywhere! there was even a long line and security guards making sure everybody waited their turn. i guess you can say she’s become a superstar!
the line went around the corner. people wanting her autograph and photo. i’m so proud of her!
one girl even started crying when she met kelia. i thought that only happened in japan?
#KM2 stands for Kelia Moniz 2 World Titles.
the line stayed long for a long time.
and of course her favorite uncle had to get his. haha. after i took a good look at this photo, i had to look again and again. this is what you call style and grace. this hang ten is unbelievable! i’ve never seen anybody ride the nose like this before. wow!
after i left kahala mall this afternoon, i drove by the the beach and found a little perfect spot, nobody out, and super fun! so i grab my longboard and paddle out for an awesome evening session all alone. i could have short boarded today but i only had 45 minutes and wanted to ride a lot of long waves. so the longboard was the call! thank you Yuki-san and Inaida-san for the photos!
windy conditions continue tomorrow. if you time it right, you might be able to find some perfect waves too. see you in the water.
