Bye Bye 2013!

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december 31, 2013 i pick up Kurihara-san and Wife. we check everywhere and the waves were super small, inconsistent, and crowded. diamond head? bowls? diamond head? bowls? after driving around, we decide to surf bowls and that was the best decision on this last day of 2013.
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i told Kurihara-san to stay right by me and he did. i counted 20 set waves in the 2 hours we were out and he caught 18 of them. i’m not joking as he caught wave after wave and paddled back out with a smile after smile.
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super stoked to surf with Kurihara-san. he’s a friend of Katsura-san and is also a swimmer. so taking off on a 5’6 was no problem for him.
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look how perfect bowls was! we scored big time! just wanted to say sorry to all the other guys out there trying to catch a decent wave. Kurihara-san and i caught all of the best ones. i bet everybody was so happy when we went in. haha.
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we paddled in pretty satisfied and you can see Kumiko-san in the back standing on the wall. cool photo.
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warm water, blue sky, trunks, and glassy conditions. what a perfect day!
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then i went to pick up Hiyori-chan from school. last night i taught her how to turn left and she did it on her first wave. now she can turn right and left so her level will go up pretty fast from now.
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this is a perfect example of perfect surfing. bend your knees and look forward! if everybody did this, the ocean will be a much safer place.
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after riding the 10′ perfectly. i put her on Kelia Moniz’s 9’0. it’s thin, narrow, and unstable. BUT, Hiyori-chan stood up first wave and turned right and left. i was amazed on how good she’s gotten so fast. before she leaves, i’m hoping to get her on a shortboard.
then i asked her “what is that mountain in the back called?” she said “i don’t remember!” OMG! Diamond Head!!!! haha.
then we went fishing. i hope Hiyori-chan doesn’t overheat again. in fact, i’m going to make her drink a big glass of water now.
going to eat soba and enjoy this last evening of 2013. tomorrow is a new year and i’ll be a new person! new vision, new goals, new thinking, and new destinations. see you next year in 1Q84. oops, i’m mean 2014!

Last Morning Session 2013!


Thank you for the wonderful morning surf session Kurihara-san and Kumiko-san! Hope you enjoy 2014 in Hawaii!

A Beautiful Smile

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this is my favorite spear gun. it’s a 100cm pipe gun with a custom airbrush. yeah, i sanded it down, got some spray paint, and started to get creative one day. that was about 4 years ago when i had time to do things like this. this gun itself probably caught me, my family, my friends, and my friends friends over $10,000 worth of fish, and over $1,000,000 worth of memories. it’s been around the world and back! i’m never getting rid of this gun. and see that shaft? it’s now bent. $50 will buy me another one and i’m not sure if i will ever attempt to spear a big fish anymore. i’d rather have my $50 than a big fish.
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see that red fish with the white stripes? that kumu is the best tasting fish in hawaii that will cost you around $60 in a chinese restaurant. you have to try it someday.
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i kept a couple of kole’s, and ended up taking the ulua and other fish down to some friends that live on the beach. they were so happy to be able to eat fresh fish to start the new year. happy new year boys!
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i receive so many emails and comments about this little girls beautiful smile. i feel like i’m the luckiest person in the world to be able to see this from the morning till night. Hiyori-chan’s smile brings smiles to each and every one of you who know her. a true survivor! thank you all for your support! “We Are One!”
and yes, it’s new years day in japan today. i want to wish each and every one of you a happy new year 2014. kotoshi mou yoroshiku onegaishimasu! 2013 was a great year and 2014 will be even better. keep on smiling!