omg, i surfed for over 6 hours today! my eyes are burnt, my skin is black, and i’m feeling high. i was driving home today and forgot where i was going. just spacing out and day dreaming. i better drink a lot of water because i surely lost a lot of it. had a blast this morning surfing over 4 hours straight with Ogawa-san. super nice guy and good surfer. glad to see him catch so many sets at bowls.

and this afternoon, i took Miyako-san and Rika-chan surfing. so good to see these girls surfing so well and being so comfortable in the ocean. i might be tired, but i’m completely satisfied with another wonderful day. too tired to take the bike for a sunset spin. instead, going to go buy some shoes.

people ask me what i do for exercise? i surf! i went from a 33″ waist last year, to a 32″ waist earlier this year, to a 31″ waist now. i feel like i’m in top shape. thanks to surfing and eating awesome food. then when i travel next week, i’ll gain 2″ back. haha.

Morning 4 hour surf session with Ogawa-san. Good waves. Good riding. Good sunburn. Good night. Haha!
Going surfing again right NOW!

ok, trying to plan out a trip to molokai next month but things are moving pretty slow. been making the calls, but no response. i was even starting to get frustrated because i just want to finalize all the plans. so i call the personal chef and get sent to his voicemail. he says “sorry i can’t come to the phone now, please leave a message and i’ll call you back. but remember, this is molokai.” haha!!!! this is molokai meaning i might call you back in 2 days, or 2 months. it’s the molokai life and that will never change so i just have to accept it. but after listening to that message, it calmed me and made me realize that things are done differently on that island. you can’t rush, you just have to go with the flow. so i’m just going to take things as it comes.

but once we all sit on that secluded beach in front of our 5 bedroom villa with a pool in the middle, we will soak in the slow life molokai has to offer.

and if for some reason the chef doesn’t show up, i will go into the mountains with my speargun, catch a deer, cut it up, and cool it for dinner.
i can’t wait to go back to the island i love so much! but before that, i have another trip to take. better start planning that one too.