omg, summer is in full swing! hot weather, cool winds, and summer swells. you can just feel the surfers adrenaline here in paradise. i love the feeling!

it’s cool so see some body boarders around too.

had a super fun time with the Maeda-san family. i was laughing all day. Maeda-san is from Osaka and has it in his blood. everything we ate, he said “GECHA UMAI YAN!” that means “super delicious!” in kansai language.

this 7 year old kids name is Sora-chan, which means sky! what a cool name for this kid! it was his first time surfing and i couldn’t believe how brave this kid was. he just stood up on every wave and jumped off when it was finished, laughing all the way!

i always feel that the ocean and surfing can bring a family even tighter together. i’m sure they won’t forget todays experience.

right foot forward is goofy foot. left foot forward is regular foot. we are both goofy and regular.

peace boy!

this kid had so much energy! he’s either going to grow up to be a sports star, or a comedian. a cute funny kid with a funnier dad.
To the Maeda-san family, Thank you for a wonderful time surfing, eating, and shave ice. I hope enjoy the rest of your trip in Hawaii and see you in the water. Aloha

Overhead, sunny, clean, and crowded!

i was online for 3 hours last night searching for flights out of hawaii and a place to go. also on the phone and through emails finding out what’s happening in the world. japan is too hot and no major typhoon in the forecast, my friend in the philippines told me to come in november, so i’m looking to the other side. will probably spend another 3 hours on my computer tonight and finalize things. all i know it’s going to be a busy week ahead. better start getting ready! but before that, i’m surfing this new south swell!

i use to only check the wave forecast for hawaii and japan for most of my life. but now, i’m looking at the world. see the southern hemisphere getting alive again? swells in indonesia, and swells in central america. awesome view!

it seemed so long ago since i went to bali. time just flies! check out more images from that awesome trip! when the big swell and high tide come up at the same time, so do the waves over the beach. it was so funny watching everybody getting washed up the beach. i seen bags, cameras, kids, and everything getting soaking wet. as for me, i was up on dry land because i knew what was going to happen. haha.

i surfed one super early morning before the contest and seen this chick out there ripping! do you know who she is?

John John Florence is flying the highest out of all his competitors. freaking amazing!

Joel Parkinson was doing the biggest carves out of all his competitors. that’s how he won the event. look good at this turn! perfection!

even thought Kelly Slater is 11x world champion, he makes mistakes too.

i’ve never seen him fall so much in my life. and i don’t think he’s ever fallen so much in his life too. did the 40 year old champ peak? i don’t think so. i’m sure he will probably win a couple more titles before he turns 50.

and last, check out this Lawson employee idiot that had his photo taken of him cooling down in the ice cream freezer. this all happened in shikoku, japan. guess what? he posted it on his facebook, somebody saw it, reported it to Lawson, and they closed down the store. this is the very reason why i don’t have facebook. i do crazy things like this all the time and i don’t want the world seeing me doing it. haha.