wow, just got emails from Kimura-san and Matsu last night. they just came back from the Mentawai’s and it seems like they had a good time. let’s check out some of the photos PHOTOGRAPHER JOHN BARTON took of the boys.

this is Kimura-san at Burger World? it looks like Burger World because of the amazing background. glad to see Kimura-san charging BIG!

i practically forced Kimura-san to take a board i had that i thought would work well for him on bigger waves. it went from hawaii to japan to mentawai and i’m glad he used it.

Mr. Bintang! Bagus! good waves is good beer.

Kimura-san getting barreled? OMG! Hey Papa, you still getting barreled at 60 years old? Unreal! You have a good life yeah? haha.

And nice bottom turn too. this must be E-Bay?

i’m glad you finally got to experience Mentawai’s. now next time, we are going to charter a boat and you are coming for sure! more waves and more bintangs!

last year Matsu asked me to pick up a gun for him from hawaii. i took it to japan, he took it to thailand, then now using it in the mentawai’s. i guess it works yeah? hey Matsu, good job on the sashimi. i wish i was there!

nice cutback Papa.

nice wave Matsu.

is this Kosei-san?

nice barrel Matsu.

ok, i’m actually jealous now. i wish i was there too. why? not for the waves, not for the fish, but for the experience. my Papa Kimura-san and my Brother Matsu needed a trouble maker like me and i’m sure they missed me. haha. next time, i’m going for sure! and next time, i’m making a lot of noise and trouble. haha.
hey Matsu, thanks for taking care of my 60 year old Papa. i know it was hard work. haha. but i was so happy to see these amazing photos of him having a great time. i’ll skype you tomorrow for the rest of the stories.
and Papa, good job! i’m proud of you surfing big hollow waves and even getting barreled. i’m sure when you were paddling for the waves, you could hear my voice yelling “GO, GO, GO, GO, GO!!!!!!” take some good rest, enjoy your life, and see you in wakayama.
PHOTOS BY JOHN BARTON

The risks of flying is: Crashing!
Good morning 6:40am.
North shore 2-4′ and stormy.
South shore knee high and strong off shore.
Winds are 30-40mph.
Weather is cloudy/sunny/rainbows.
Have a wonderful day!

i had a great time surfing this morning with Kosai-san. Kosai-san is from kobe and has been surfing for the past 30 years. we had a lot to talk about because i surfed a lot of the places he surfed and he knows some of the people i know. and he also knows a lot about japanese surf history and culture. after our morning session, we picked up his wife and did a sightseeing tour around the east side. thank you Mr. and Mrs. Kosai for a wonderful full day!

sandy beach was pretty wild. big shore break waves and a lot of wind. so many people enjoying this beautiful presidents weekend in hawaii.

then i took them to one of my favorite views in the world. every time i go here, i say “wow!” wow!
a windy day today and get use to it because it’s going to be windy all week long. good night!