i want to thank Matsu for sending me these photos from germany. he’s in munich now on photo assignment. gosh, i have to go here some day to try this.

the water looks freezing cold!

maybe i’ll go to germany to just catch one wave?

speaking of one wave, i was at rocky point shooting the other morning. the waves were coming up right in front of my eyes so i jumped in my car and headed to backdoor. i was shooting and seen some amazing riding like this wave of gavin beschen. yes, i was jealous but i had work to do. i only had 1 hour before i had to go back to town to work. should i go out and get a few?

then i see Nishizeko-san get ready to paddle out. i wanted to get a photo of him because he’s an official go-naminori blogger. so i wait patiently and was hoping he caught a wave soon. then 5 minutes later, he gets a good barrel.

i take the sequence and knew i got a good photo. the waves weren’t good all morning but i knew it was going to get better so i run to my car and grab my 6’0. wax it up and run down to the beach and paddle my fastest out. i paddle out, see my friend dan malloy out and start talking story about our west australia trip a while ago. he was out for 2 hours and i told him “these are the kind of days you can get a good barrel with nobody around.” then out of the horizon, i see a big set coming, i paddle, i take off, i bottom turn, and i get a stand up barrel! i come in, i run to my car, and i drive back to town with a big smile on my face. from leaving my car to surf to coming back, it took me 18 minutes. 18 minutes door to door and i get a backdoor barrel. it was my first barrel of this year and i needed it really bad. i’ve been working too hard and just to get a good barrel on the north shore resets my mind and makes me want to work harder and get barreled deeper. what a great day!

so thank you Go-Naminori Official Blogger Fumihiko Nishizeko for catching a wave really fast so i could get my job done and get a wave too. and thank you for posting this photo of my 1 wave! keep on surfing and see you in the water or on Go-Naminori! Surf Your Dream!

To Mr. and Mrs. Fujita, I hope you enjoy these photos! Remember our rainbow session? I will never forget it. Keep on surfing and see you again in Hawaii. Aloha!

Is something wrong here? This is China.
Good morning 6:30am
Small waves today
North shore is 1′ and clean
South shore is flat to knee high and clean
Light tradewinds at 15mph
Clouds in the morning, sunny after with lots of rainbows
Next North/West swell on Sunday
Work all day
Have a good one!