i had a great time surfing with this wonderful family today. The Kato-san family is very kind and i was happy to see them in the water having so much fun. we had a whole space to ourselves and everybody surfed great! thank for the wonderful session!

these kids probably eat shave ice every summer in japan. but nothing comes close to the shave ice we have here at waiola. watching them take the first bite was so funny. i knew they would love it. hey Yu-kun and Ken-kun, keep on surfing!

my niece is blowing up big time! check out her new cover shot on the Pacific Longboarder magazine. Kelia Moniz walks the board with finesse. if you think hanging ten is easy, try hanging both your feet over the nose while flying down a wave. she makes it look so dam easy.
*anyway, getting ready for a big halloween night in waikiki!!!!
**last, a 48 year old woman got stabbed by a knife this morning at diamond head lighthouse. yeah, right on the beach! a guy tried to steal her backpack and when she tried to take it back, he stabbed her. and the guy got away. omg!

Super Surfer Mario Makisan!

what’s the perfect wave? well, for me, it’s a right hander barrel. a dream session would be perfect 4-6′ waves with nobody out or just a few friends. this wave was at a secret spot on the other side of the world. there was nobody out, the waves were perfect, offshore, and barreling. i paddled out shortly after taking this photo and got barreled on every single wave. easy take off, easy bottom turn, and easy barrel. i can’t wait to go back there again.

here is another secret spot perfect wave. this wave wasn’t so easy. the wave was so thick that you had to take off under the lip. and if you’re lucky enough to make it to the bottom, all you had to do was a slight right turn and the wave will go over your head. yeah, even thought if you didn’t want to get barreled, you will get barreled. this day was probably one of my best barrel session of my life. photo by matsu.

my sisters been getting pretty good at shooting. i know for a fact that she doesn’t know how to do photoshop so these are the actual colors she’s pulling into her camera. most people shoot automatic but shooting manual is the only way to get images like this. good job sis!

north shore girls just want to have fun!

shooting sunset photos is my favorite! to see the light, to see the subject, and to combine them both in one photo pretty much captures the moment. i remember going to check the waves in the evening in okinawa and as i walked up to the wall, i seen the moment. i took out my camera, i shot this photo, then this girl looked behind and said “what are you doing?” in japanese. i said “oh, sorry sista” in english and walked away. she must of thought i was shooting a photo of her butt, but my main subject in this photo was the single fin surfboard with the sun going down behind. the girl just made it better. haha.