My Bro-In-Law Tony Moniz @ Pipeline in the 1980’s. Big Man, Big Wave, Big Heart!
Good morning 4:45am.
Small waves today.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Waikiki waist high and clean.
Now: Dark
Wind: Calm
Weather: Overcast
Plan: Pack
Have a wonderful day!

i can’t believe it!!! i was hoping for flat waves in okinawa so i can finally go diving. then i get an email from takami-san saying another typhoon is coming? really? gosh, i’m so over surfed and needed a week of relaxing, diving, and hanging out with friends. now with the next typhoon coming, it’s going to be another busy trip for me. if there’s waves, i must surf. that’s just in my blood. anyway, i leave tomorrow and my endless summer continues. can’t complain right?

Inaida-san and i surfed probably over 100 times already. each time progressing, each time relaxing, each time getting stronger, and each time laughing. i’ve seen his body change over the past year ever since he started surfing. stronger, and much healthier. it makes me happy to see the positive changes surfing can do for a person.

Inaida-san riding a 9’6 now. 9’4 in the making. and i’m hoping to get him down to a 9’0 in the near future. then it’s hang 5 time! then it’s tube time! then it’s mentawai time!

everybody out in the water notices Yuki-san’s progress. she gets better and better by the wave. the first time we went surfing, she was a little nervous and scared of the waves. now? when she wipes out on a big wave, she comes up and laughs. it’s cool how the ocean can bring out the best smiles in anyone.

Yuki-san’s on a 9’1 in this photo, now she’s on a 7’0. next will be a 6’4 and watch this girl doing off the lips!
we enjoy surfing everyday in hawaii. and we enjoy hawaiian style life. i haven’t met 2 people before that have a better life than mine. and the cool thing about it is they just begun the hawaiian surfing dream last year. something that will last a lifetime. like karen carpenter sings “We’ve Only Just Begun.”

Butter/Garlic Snow Crab @ Crab City.
First time.
First crab.
First experience.
First time, but not last time.
CHEAP, GOOD, FUN!