i’m super stoked to have one of my friends voted the 2012 Waterman of the Year! i’ve known Shane Dorian for about 25 years. akila aipa, conan hayes, and i were up in the big island doing a photo shoot back in the 1980’s with photographer john callahan. it was there in kona when i first met Shane. he was a little kid back then but super humble. we ended up going to japan for the 1990 world amateur contest and it’s then when i got to know him much better. super calm, super humble, and super stoked on surfing. i’ve seen him shine throughout the years and represent hawaii in the most respected way. everybody loves Shane and even though he retired off the world tour, he’s still traveling around the world chasing his dream of riding the biggest wave in the world. i see him once in a while out in the water and always like talking to him about the good old days, and also the sport of hunting he’s super into. anyway, once again, this is one of the most respected surfers in the world and he deserves to be waterman of the year for many years to come. congratulations Shane!
[vimeo]http://vimeo.com/47053106#[/vimeo]
2012 Waterman of the Year!
Shikoku Gallery Part 2 on Go-Naminori
oh my gosh, i didn’t realize how many photos are on my compact flash card. between matsu and i, we took so many photos on that 4 day typhoon 9 and 10 trip. i don’t even remember what day, what time, where, and when everything happened. all i remember was having a good time driving through japan experiencing the beautiful culture and amazing waves. this is day 2 0f 4 of my surf trip and although there are much more photos, i decided to leave a few out for a future web magazine. yeah, been asked a lot about vol. 7 and it’s just a matter of time we have to put one out. but for now, hope you enjoy this gallery.
been checking the forecast and no typhoons on the way. ummm…. what shall i do? so many options, so little time. i only have a few days off so i’m going to try to maximize my days. i just want to keep on traveling, moving around, and seeing old friends, and meeting new ones. but for now, going surfing!
**oh, if any of you are in this gallery and want a photo, please feel free to take it for your personal use. more photos on the way so stay tuned.