you want to hear a funny story? i was surfing at bowls a few days ago. a nice perfect wave was coming so i looked ahead, nobody was there so i pushed yuki-san into it on her longboard. a big local guy was on the side and paddled up to me “eeeh brah, you almost hit me.” he thought i was a japanese tourist. i looked at him and said “take it easy, not even close.” he said “brah, if you hit my surfboard, i going make you buy um. go surf somewhere else.” my heart started pumping, my hair started to stand up, and i was about to say “F@!K YOU!!!!!” but i see yuki-san paddling back out and didn’t want her to see the crazy side of me so i sat on my longboard, closed my eyes, and took 3 deep breaths of air. i opened my eyes, looked at the guy, smiled, and gave him the expression “today is your lucky day!” i was so at ease and was amazed how meditation can clear my mind. this guy was about 230 lbs, but i knew that i can hold my breath much longer than him. i was even picturing in my mind how i was going to paddle up to him, stand up on my longboard, jump and give him a bruce lee kick, then grab him and hold him under water until only one of us comes up. i’m not sure what’s going to happen the next time i surf bowls but all i have to say is “i ain’t backing down again.” if you see me taking 3 deep breaths of air, get the heck away cause once i grab you, you better have a scuba tank. haha. i’m just joking. i’m all about peace and i’m just proud of myself to be able to walk away from bully’s.

My relax day!

FOR SALE! at the Hawaiian Islands Vintage Surf Auction
Presented by Quiksilver Waterman Collection
Blaisdell Center, Honolulu, Oahu
22 – 23 July 2011
A Classic! I want it!!!!