5 am. Going Swimming….

good evening. i woke up early and the sky was super blue so even though i didn’t want to go out into the sun for a while, the beach was calling me. so the beach is where i went…

i was driving down my street this morning and seen a garage sale. i usually pass on by but something caught my eye. yup, classic surfboards!!! so i slammed my breaks and pulled over to check it out. that Surfboards Hawaii board was shaped by Ben Aipa in the 1970’s and was selling for only $75. i was going to buy it but passed up on it because i have too many junks at my house already. i know some friends in japan that would have bought all 3 boards in a heartbeat….

i went down to waikiki to spend a day on the beach. my sister and tony are down there everyday so i have access to surfboards and…..
see that umbrella on the beach with 2 chairs? looks tempting yeah? for my whole life, i’ve never had the chance to sit on one. it’s too expensive and to touristy. but today was my lucky day. my sisters friend hooked me up and i couldn’t turn it down….

i took a nap in paradise. it’s my first time and definitely not my last. as i was driving home from waikiki, i was thinking to myself what a wonderful place i live. would i want to be anywhere else today? nope. not even in a barrel in the mentawai’s. this is my home and i’m loving every minute i’m back here….

good morning. first of all, i thought i’d check the news in america since i’ve been feeling so distant. the first headline that came up on CNN was:
Man Who Spread H.I.V. May Be Held

what? so i read into it. this guy in new york was 21 years old when he got aids. he knew that he had it and wanted to share it. so what does he do? have unprotected sex with 300 women. yeah, he spread his aids and infected some girls with the virus. he got caught and served 12 years in jail. well… he’s 33 now and ready to come out. what? they are going to let this animal back into society? at 33 years old, wouldn’t you think he is going to do the same thing? this is the part of the american judicial system i don’t like. after reading that news, i closed my computer and had to shake my head….

on to more positive things, on our last day in bali, keramas was going off!! 4′ and perfect. i pull up in the morning with my surfboard and camera. i put my camera down and surf, surf, and surf. the kids were asking me if i was going to shoot. my answer was “are you crazy?” yes, i love to shoot, but i also love to get barreled and if it’s barreling, i’m surfing. that’s why i’m a shitty photographer. haha…
this is akeo waseda getting ready for a barrel. after surfing for 3 hours, i came out to drink water, then i took a few photos, and went back out.
oh, i want to ask everybody a favor. if the waves are big and barreling, please don’t paddle up to me and say “are you going to shoot?” my my answer will be the same “are you crazy?”
**wanted to thank all the people who sent emails in about wanting to be an editor for the hours and hours of movies we have. we have chose 2 guys as of now to be in charge of that department and hopefully we can get some awesome videos out soon. one guy is from kamogawa and another from seattle. you guys know who you are. as for the others who want the opportunity, don’t worry, i still have your contact information. i want to get as many people involved with go-naminori. that’s what it’s all about. i think everybody in this world deserves a chance and you will get it sometime or another. i was given many chances in my life and it’s time to give it all back. keep on trying because you might be the next big thing!!! thanks again to all of you…

SURF YOUR DREAM!!!