This morning going off!!!

good morning. 6 am and hello to big waves on the north shore. and hello to our new south swell. bowls is head high and going off now. i seen a wave peel all the way across. there is no wind and the conditions are PERFECT!!! let our endless summer continue!! i’m going to grab my camera and shoot bowls in the morning, then go surf a secret spot around the corner and surf, surf, and surf when the tide drops. have a great day and see you in the water..
I MISS JAPAN!!! it’s been almost 3 months since my last trip to japan. i love everything about it and now that my friends are going back, i wish i could go back too. i was on the phone yesterday with my travel agent trying to get a flight next month. i freakin can’t wait!!!

i miss the culture. everything and everywhere fascinates me….

i miss the food. especially the sashimi….

i miss the diving. especially the deep blue…

and i miss the waves. i can hear the typhoons calling me….
**as soon as i board my flight to japan, i’ll probably piss in my pants from all the excitement!!! haha…

good evening. north shore is going to be huge tomorrow. the buoy is up again so waimea bay should be 15′ +. west side should be going off. and for you town lovers, another south shore? yes, i was out at bowls this afternoon and i seen some 2′ sets that were peeling all the way across. i seen egan inoue do 5 big snaps on one. tomorrow should be bigger and really clean in the morning. there’s surf for every level of surfers in hawaii. go out and enjoy our amazing year of waves. i’ll see you in the water tomorrow. if you see me shooting photos, smile. if you see me surfing, stay out of my way. haha…. oyasuminasai[:Zzz:]

the kumu i speared last week tipped the scale at 3.80 lbs. this boy was fat!! if you were to eat this fish at a 5 star restaurant in hawaii, it would feed 6 people at $40/each. yes, a $240 fish. want to try? stand outside of my kitchen door with your $40 and i’ll give you a bite. haha. but no joke, this fish is a prize for spear fishermen. why? because you can’t catch these on a fishing pole so the only way is to trap it, which i think is unfair. or to spear it, like the hawaiians use to do it in the old days. i can’t wait to get another one!!!

this is kewalo’s local boy travis flying high at ehukai beach park. this shot would be sick if his back foot was on the board. but even though it’s not, it’s still pretty sick.

and last, when i seen this lady walking up and down the beach, i had a 70’s flashback. the stripe bikini with the big rimmed gold sunglasses? i remember my own mother wearing the same outfit back in the 70’s…. it was pretty weird….