good evening. another great surf day in hawaii. it’s kind of windy but so what if it’s off shore…. more surf on the way. got millions of things to do before i leave and don’t even know when to start. help…. anyway, have a great evening…

after all the hype, it’s finally out!! the new surf1st came out a few weeks ago in japan and i’ve been getting tons of calls and emails ever since. i finally got my hands on a copy and i’m more stoked than ever…. why???

because this is the back cover!!! for this issue, i’m going to read the magazine backwards and put it on my coffee table with this being the cover. why?
1. because i was there.
2. this sequence is awesome.
3. it was tokura-san’s 60th birthday.
4. the red vest.
5. the party after.
6. 14 happy people on the boat.
7. uncrowded HT’s.
8. the perfect wave
9. the perfect trip.
10. a lifetime memory.
i will never forget this boat trip, let alone, this amazing day that happened to fall on tokura-san’s 60th birthday!!! congratulations tokura-san!!! kanpai!!!

and lucky me got a 2 page spread on one of the most perfect wave of my life. thanks kenji sahara for taking the best photo you ever taken of me, and thanks surf1st for supporting a huge project that was more than successful. next year we’re doing it all over again so send in your applications…. this could be you!!!! shit, i’m so happy right now that i’m going to drink a beer and toast to myself. kanpai[:?????????:][:?????????:][:?????????:]

kewalo’s 3:15pm. big kajiki maguro!!! yabai!!!

3pm kewalo’s: 3′ or atama gurai. sugoi ii nami desu…