good morning. 6:30 am on this presidents day. sunny skies, no wind, and waves everywhere. i just seen a few barrels at backdoor/pipe. 3-5′ and clean. only 3 guys out. town still has some small waist high waves. today is looking like a good north shore day. i think everywhere will be good. see you out there!!!

they just opened up tutti frutti right down my street. in my opinion, it’s much better than yogurt land….

besides eating tutti frutti yogurt, these 3 girls have been working hard. they have been filming in the water everyday last week for the upcoming bethany hamilton hollywood movie. yeah, these girls will all be movie stars!! kelia is starring as “kelia moniz.” isn’t that cool? she has surfing parts and also dialog parts. i think kelia is going to blow up after the movie comes out. world champion surfers? movie stars? it’s all in these 3 girls hands….

i walked outside my house and seen this aloe growing out of the sidewalk. did you know that aloe is used by hawaiians for medicine for cuts and burns? it does wonders…

wanted to thank kazu-san for sending me this photo. i’m going down to this store to check it out….

and last, the waves have been big all around the island so i haven’t been diving. maybe that’s why i’m so stressed out recently… help!! get me back in the water!!!

Tanoshimi!!!

hope you all had a good happy valentines day!!! wasn’t today the nicest day outdoors? i surfed bowls with tokura-san and it was sunny, the water warm, off shore winds, and friendly locals. had a great session and still can’t believe the south swell is still around. more on the way and everybody is getting excited. our summer is here and it’s only february!!! go surf and go have fun!!!

i had this photo on my desktop. somebody emailed it to me and i totally forgot who. i tried to go digging back into my old emails but there were just too many. so just wanted to take this time to thank the person who sent me this photo of jacksan. how can i get a bottle of this?

hey, where’s all the water? the tides been so low all day long recently. i cracked a few fins, and put a lot of dings in my boards paddling out to bowls. can somebody please bring back the water?

meet kalua and the kimura’s….

i shot this photo of my friend patrick sambueno the other day at kewalo’s rights. pat and i go way way back. back to the classic pink cadillac days. it’s good to see him still surfing and enjoying the waves….

the other day at bowls, there was this japanese girls surfing on the inside. every time she caught a wave, she would have this big smile on her face. i guess surfing can bring a smile to anybody’s face…