Tuesday August16日 2022年

Typhoon 20 Chiba Japan….

good evening. how’s this, i went to surf bowls this morning. it was high tide and not so good. i paddled out anyway because there were only 3 guys out. surfed for a couple of hours and the waves were actually fun. i was waiting to catch a wave to go in when this freak 3′ double up set came in. i took off, grabbed my rail, and got a 5 second backside barrel. from the take off all the way to the inside. i was tripping out. i surfed bowls over 3000 times in my life and that was the best barrel i’ve ever gotten out there. gosh, i’m so stoked on surfing again. you just never know when your going to get the wave of your life….. i got mine today at bowls. believe it or not….. after that, went to maui dive to check out some spearguns and stuff. shit, i wanted everything in that store. a store like that is dangerous for me right now. i’m hooked on diving and diving stuff cost big bucks. anyway, i’m waiting for my custom made gun to make it here from bali and as soon as i get it, i’m going to start my boat engine up and i’m going blue water diving….
**how’s this, there was a huge tiger shark cruzing at leftovers and chuns reef yesterday. they closed the beach and a helicopter tried to chase it out. the shark must have been laughing….
and speaking about sharks, there was a big hammerhead cruzing on a beach in maui last week….

hammerheads are cool. they don’t attack and are pretty cool to see in the water. sometimes they get agressive but it’s because we’re in their world….

the new tourist attraction. “come to maui and see a shark hunt for fish 5 feet off shore.” just watch your toes….

check out the waves in chiba two days ago. typhoon season still in full swing in japan. going off!!! gallery by kenji sahara coming in the next day or so….

bodyboard girls and everything…. check back later on GO-NAMINORI.COM….
**SHARK ATTACK NEWS** just watched the news and some guy got attacked by a shark in maui yesterday. only got his leg so he’s lucky to be alive. gosh, got some hungry sharks around here….

More Typhoon Action from Okinawa….

good morning. 6:30am and the waves came down a little on the north shore but it’s a lot cleaner. still 3′ with clean conditions. rocky point looks good. town still has some waves too. bowls is chest/shoulder high with 10 guys out already. get out there and enjoy this beautiful day…. and please be safe. shit, when i was driving home last night from yoga, i almost killed a guy on a moped. i was at a stop sign, looked right, looked left, and it was clear. i started to go and the last minute, he was flying down the street and i didn’t see him. i slammed my breaks and he flew right by my car. 3 inches more, he would have been dead. my heart stopped. i was glad i didn’t hit him. but a little pissed that he ruined my yoga relaxation….

josh wasn’t kidding when he said i missed the last typhoon. right before i went to okinawa for free diving, i heard the waves were good. but i didn’t know it was that good. look at this wave. sick. now i’m bummed out that i missed it. oh wait, that’s right, i was surfing big mountain river mouth. sorry, i’m not bummed. i just with i could have been two places at the same time…

this is my friend satoru-san. he seemed so happy when i was in okinawa. now i know why. if i got to surf these waves right in front of sunabe sea wall, i would have been happy too….. yeah satoru-san….

the same swell, kinsan was shooting some pro’s for the upcoming surf1st magazine. i think this is danny melhado. he made this drop. sick….

another jpsa pro charging. i heard numajiri was there too. gosh, i really missed out. the gallery should be up soon on GO-NAMINORI and a sick article should be coming out soon in surf1st. can’t wait…. thanks josh for the awesome photos. see you in okinawa next year for sure…… surf/dive….
**x-cel pro off for today…..

Typhoon 20 Japan/Philippine Surf…..

good evening. they ran round 1 at the x-cel pro today at sunset. the waves looked 3-5′ with shifty and windy conditions but they had to get it started. got a call from a friend saying the waves were shitty on the north shore so i jumped in at bowls. there were some 3′ sets and it was super fun. more solid south swells on the way. still waiting for a huge west swell to take the sand off the beach at pipeline. then i’m surfing backdoor everyday…. yeah!!!! until then, i’m saving my gas….

check out one of my favorite waves in the world. this was yesterday. shit, i missed out. this wave is so good. it’s actually similar to cloud 9 in a way. meaning, barrel after barrel. this is somewhere in japan and i ain’t saying where. want to thank kobayashi-san from selection surf shop for the pics….

i was actually jealous when i seen these photos. i know how good this place can get and i know how it feels getting barreled there. makes me want to jump on the next flight back to japan. surf and sushi. can’t beat that….


and check out cloud 9 yesterday. typhoon 20 action. this is gerry from sagana getting tube time. gerry was super busy during the contest last month that he was complaining to me that he couldn’t get in the water. now that nobody’s around, he’s probably laughing in the barrel. go get um gerry. more barrels heading your way….
round x-cel pro heat 5 results. top 3 advance. wow….
4 Black 8.73 IAN ROTGANS USA

shota nakamura, kyohei yamada, and joe tanaka also advanced to round 2. go-japan…..

look down south!!! huge storms!!! tahiti will probably be huge. and another solid south swell coming next week. save gas, surf town….

i stole this photo off chiaki’s blog. save a piece of cake for me… check out the rest of CHIAKI’S BIRTHDAY PARTY PHOTOS BY CLICKING HERE….