good evening, pulled up to backdoor/pipe early this morning and it was perfect. 6-8 and as good as it gets. the contest was on so everybody was out practicing. should i go out and hassle with everybody? no thank you. instead, i headed over to haleiwa and….

scored!!! not too many guys out, 3-5′ and long rights. matchi and i were taking turns going wave after wave for 1 hour. then everybody else came out and it got crowded. so i headed back to pipe to watch the contest and….

ugly!!! the waves were small, onshore, and ugly. i couldn’t believe how fast it went from good to bad. lunch time came and….

we all headed to romy’s. yup, i ate there 4 or 5x so far this year and i’m not finished yet. i love it there!!! remember to order the #1 with prawns instead of shrimp. awesome!!!

speaking of good to bad. pipeline is a tricky wave and even the best pro surfers can lose at any time out there. last week, shun and i paddled out to 4′ shitty onshore junky pipe in the evening for a surf. what a lot of surfers don’t understand that you can’t only be a barrel specialist to win contests out there. you have to be able to read the ocean, swell, and be able to do turns to make heats. how do you think taj burrow won the pipeline masters last december? by turns. the waves out there can get good to bad in a matter of minutes so you better be prepared. and preparing yourself is pretty easy. get out there on the shitty junky days and surf it. just by shun surfing that shitty evening out there, he learned a lot more than the surfers that just surf it when it’s good.
the point i’m trying to say is that a lot of parents ask me how can their kids get better in surfing. the answer is pretty simple. surf, surf, and surf. go the the beach before the sun comes up, and go home after the sun goes down. just by surfing and hanging out at the beach all day, you will learn a lot about the ocean, weather, tides, waves, and also make friends. i call it “hands on experience” and you can’t get it sitting in your room and taking naps everyday. do you think kelly slater did that? heck no… so for you young kids, go down to the beach in the morning and go home at night. i guarantee you will be ahead of the rest of the competition…. don’t read books, read the ocean. don’t take naps, do snaps…. hope that knocks some sense into you….

Going OFF!!!

good morning. 6:30 and the waves are going off!!! perfect backdoor/pipe right now. the contest should be on but i hope it isn’t. the swell is dropping and there are no winds. epic conditions on the north shore. town still has a small swell too. i’m going surfing!!! have a nice day….

everybody’s been asking “where’s all the sand??? here’s the answer. over there at pupukea. the sandbar is going out to the lineup. the next small clean day might be looking more like kirra….

i was over at tamura’s the other day and seen this bottle. it looked familiar. a friend gave me this as a present after i graduated from high school. i had no clue what it was and kept it under my bed for years and years. one day i was cleaning up because i was moving to japan back in 1992 and found it. my friend came over and offered me $700 cash for the bottle and box. i said “shoots” which means “yes” in pidgen language. come to find out, it was an expensive bottle of Remy Martin Louis XIII. a bottle on sale cost $1729.99. eeh???? i should have kept it. i heard the just the crystal bottle alone is worth $500. oh well….

i was watching the pipe contest yesterday and seen keito matsuoka get a sick pipe wave. he didn’t make this barrel so they scored him a 3.67. if he had made it, he probably would have gotten a 9.5. but it was ok because he made it through the heat anyway…. good luck tomorrow boys…

and last, wanted to thank kimura-san for this cool present he brought all over from bali. Jack-san is going on my wall!!! stoked!!!