i was over at the hilton hawaiian village yesterday. it was pretty nice looking out from the lobby to the ocean. cool…. oh, wanted to thank the boys down there for letting me park my car right in front of the hotel. where ever i go, i feel like a vip member. gosh, it’s so good to have such awesome friends that take care of me. mahalo guys…

photos like this inspire me as a surfer and a photographer. i look at it and think to myself “wow, this is what you call art.” now all i have to do is go out and get one for myself. just give me some time….

everybody in the world has their own way of cooking tako. my way is pretty easy.

first. freeze the tako. for some reason, it turns out much softer after cooked.
second. defrost it and turn the head inside out and take out the brains.
third. pour a lot of salt all over to wash off the slime.
fourth. rinse it off.
fifth. heat a big pot on the stove. don’t put anything in.
sixth. throw the whole tako inside. the water from the tako will bring it to a light boil.
seventh. when the tako starts to boil, add in 2 cups of japanese sake, and 2 cups of mirin.
eight. cover it and cook on medium/low heat for 45 minutes. yes, i said 45 minutes. it’s called slow steaming.
ninth. take it out, cut it up, and enjoy the best tako of your life.
tenth. go dive and get another tako. please don’t ask me for one because tako is like gold to me.
try it, you’ll like it…

good morning. 6:30 am and i have no idea how the waves are. the surf cameras are down for some reason. i’m guessing it’s small but i’m going to do it like the old days. just drive down and check it with my own eyes. if there’s waves, score!! if not, i’ll jump in anyway. it’s still better than sitting in front of my computer. ok, heading out now. hope everybody has a nice day!!!

just got an email from my friend derek who’s selling his 1968 VW ghia. gosh, i really want to buy it!! porsche alloys? recarro seats? oh my gosh!!! if i had a bigger garage, i would buy it in a second!!! there’s no motor or transmission but you can get it for cheap these days. why is he selling it? because he want to fix up his boat instead and start fishing again. that makes me pretty happy because derek knows where the fish is. last time we went, we caught like 10 mahi mahi’s, 4 ono’s, and 20 or so aku’s or katsuo. i will never forget the barbecue we did in my garage after!!! derek, once your boat is ready, call me and let’s go!!! IT’S AHI FEVER!!!

if your interested it this car, shoot me an email and i’ll get you connected with derek. only one thing, if you buy it, you have to let me drive it for a day. haha… mahalo…

this is my friend derek. photo by kinsan 7 summers ago. from 7th grade till now, we did some crazy things together. the kind of things you won’t believe. haha.. i’m just glad we’re both alive, not in jail, and still surfing. yeah derek, let’s go grab some beers soon!!!

surf into summer @ bowls this weekend. i heard from mike akima that a solid swell is on the way. the competitors are going to score!!! if you didn’t enter by now, better call the sheraton local motion and beg maki-san to let you in. when i was an amateur competitor, this contest was my favorite. why? because you can surf bowls with only 5 other guys out. that’s pretty rare…. anyway, wanted to wish all the competitors good luck!!! see you down there….
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