good morning. 6:15 am and the new south swell is here. seen some nice head high sets at bowls. already 25 guys out and the park looks pretty crowded too. i’d say 100 guys easy. it’s kind of windy but the waves still look good. today i was going to take a break from surfing but after seeing some nice sets, i might have to grab a few. maybe see you out there, maybe not. have a nice day!!!

from knee high to double overhead, bowls has waves for everybody. and that’s why everybody surfs there. when naoka and i paddled out at 5:30 am yesterday morning, there were 20 guys out already. the good thing about it is the morning crowd is much more mellow then the afternoon crowd. i guess the cool sunrise mellows people out, where as the hot scorching sun brings out the stress in the afternoon. everybody, let’s surf happy!!!

want to congratulate kyle nakamoto for spearing this big ono “sawara” the other day. gosh, i wish i was with you…. save one for me. i think i’m ready to try again…

how cool is this photo? check out that water spout off Maroubra beach in Sydney, Australia….
**every country has it’s own culture and i respect that. but there are things that blow my mind. take for example…

that little girl in the photo is 11 years old. her name is Krishna and just got married to 13 year old Kishan. this took place in the Indian state of Rajasthan. unacceptable in most countries but not there. if you oppose that kind of marriages, keep your kids away from that country….

Fascinating!!!

tokura-san and naoka came here 5 days ago. since they have been staying right in front of bowls, we’ve been surfing at bowls everyday. the waves have been fun and the weathers been perfect. i pulled up yesterday morning and seen it pretty empty. so instead of going out there and surfing a wave i surf everyday, i decided to paddle out with my camera and get some shots of the boys. tokura-san is living a pretty happy life now. surf, snowboard, and travel. i wonder where he’s going next??

i met naoka 4 years ago. since then, i’ve seen him turn from salary man to happy surfer. i keep on telling him that if he keeps on working hard, he can live a fabulous life and mix surf in with work. he’s on the right track because if he wasn’t, he’d be sitting in an office in tokyo wondering “what if?”
anyway, wanted to wish tokura-san and naoka a safe flight back to japan. i’ll be seeing you very soon!! once the typhoons start coming, i’m on a flight living out of my suitcase again. i’m “always searching for the perfect wave….”