**i really don’t like to talk about localism but i think it’s about time i bring it up again. why? because more and more of my local friends are getting irritated by foreigners paddling around them, or paddling outside of them. i was surfing bowls this past winter and my local friend asked me “who’s that japanese guy with that color wetsuit and that color surfboard and so fouth…..” my friend is a pretty heavy local out there and for him to get upset at a japanese surfer is pretty rare, especially being that his wife is from japan. anyway, he was pissed off because that surfer got in his way and just kept on padding around the lineup like it’s his home break. he was nice enough to ask me who it was before he punched teeth out. yes, it was somebody i knew and i felt really bad. and still do…..
here’s what i think and always think. every surf spot in the world has locals. i’ve surfed some of the heaviest localism spots in the world from africa to japan. most locals are cool and if you go out there and respect them, they will respect you. if you see a local paddling for a wave, don’t paddle for it. if you get in a locals way, say sorry. if you get a local upset, go in. it’s pretty simple. i think surfers around the world are so lucky to surf in hawaii because everybody is pretty much welcomed. anybody can come from any where in the world and surf any spot they want in hawaii. the only way a local will get mad is if you paddle for his wave, drop in on him, or disrespect him. i see people from all different counties come here and do stupid things. then they wonder why they get punched, drowned, their boards broken, their car windows broken, or things thrown at them. hawaii isn’t a heavy localized surf paradise. but if you cross the line, bad things can happen. and that’s in every part of the world. i’ve seen some pretty crazy localism stuff in other countries i’d rather not talk about. but let me tell you, it can get ugly….

so back to the solution. if your at your hometown surf spot, do what ever you want to. but if your in somebody else’s surf spot, respect them and treat them as you would want to be treated in your own spot. it’s that simple. when my local friends come up to me and ask me “what, is that guy your friend?”, i get bummed. yeah, maybe he’s my friend, or maybe he’s not my friend. that’s not the point. i just think that all surf lineups would be fine if the foreign surfers respect the local surfers….
luckily i’m from hawaii and understand what happens when somebody disrespects the locals. i’ve seen it hundreds of times and it would kill me if that happened to one of my friends. but what can i do? i can’t be there all the time right?
here’s my advise to all you traveling surfers. first, respect the locals. and last, smile. a nice smile goes a long way and can sometimes get you out of deep shit!!![:????????$B!r(B:]

there is an authentic korean restaurant in town. not too many people know about it but thanks to a friend, i do. this place is not your typical yakiniku restaurant, it’s more than that….

this is the chicken stir fry. complete with korean mochi. i love it!!!

then after, you add the rice in and make fried rice!!!

and yes, when eating korean food, drink korean beer. hite pitcher with an ice cold glass. kanpai[:?????????:]
CHEAP AND GOOD! secrets are better left secrets….

hey, i know a really good place to stay in bali. it’s out of the outskirts of the busy kuta district. it’s a 2 minute walking distance to a famous beach break, it’s got many of waves to choose right in front, and it’s run by a professional balinese surfer that everybody respects. i stayed there on my last visit to bali and it felt like home.

this is the main dining room. it’s built in the traditional balinese way. really clean, cool, and spacious….

this is just one of 3 rooms. spacious and comfortable. you got your own tv, your own refrigerator, and your own shower and toilet. not to mention, an air conditioner to cool it down. oh, i forgot, you also have wayan coming in everyday cleaning your room, changing your sheets, and even washing your clothes. can you beat that?

between the 3 rooms has a nice garden. hang out, take a tan, or have a few bintangs….

have you heard of the famous beach called changu? changu is the most consistent and fun wave in bali. if you get up early enough, you can have it to yourself. you got the perfect left right out in front, then the sandbar on the side, then this is the main point. there’s waves for everybody and every level. and the good thing is it’s all in a walking distance….

i’ve been going to bali for a long time and surfed everywhere. well, almost everywhere. our changu house guide made took us to a spot that i didn’t know existed. a barreling beach break where you can get the ride of your life. only a handful of people know this spot and made is one of them…

that’s made on the left. he’s a really cool guy that knows everything about bali. a pro surfer, an excellent guide, and a great person to hang out with in bali. whether it’s secret restaurants, babi guling, shopping, cozy massages, or anything, made will take you there….
for more information on how to stay at the changu house, contact:
MADE SWASTIKA
PHONE: 081338726610

and last, if you stay there, you get to play with this puppy all you want. such a cutie!!