good morning. 6am thursday morning. waves back up on the north shore. it looks around 4-6′ but should be getting bigger because the buoys are up. conditions? perfect!!! more perfect than perfect yesterday. get it? town is small. some leftover waist/chest high sets and expect packed lineups. i checked the park yesterday and must have seen 200 guys out. surfing is still booming…. girls, boys, men, women, dads, moms, grandpas and grandmas. everybody’s surfing now days. that’s cool… well, i gotta get out of here. i’m going surfing. see you in the water. have a safe day and hope your front window doesn’t crack. shit, i couldn’t stop thinking about it all night. it’s going to cost $404 to fix. i want to find that little rock and beat it up… ahhhhhh…..[:??????:][:??????:]
wanted to thank kenji sahara for sending me this photo of isaiah moniz surfing nanakuli tracks…. nice shot….
**when i use to go to clubs, i’ve seen and heard everything. but when i read this pick up line in a magazine, i couldn’t stop laughing. this is actually a good one. but don’t use it because it won’t work on me… haha…. enjoy….
“I’m new in town and can’t find my way around; could I have directions to your place?”
The #1 Best Pick up Line….
My Precious Kumu Gyotaku Print….
good evening. gosh, yet another good day of surf on the island. everywhere was clean and good. i headed out to the north shore and when i pulled up to off-the-wall, not one surfer was out. i was out there….
check out this wave!! last week, there would be everybody on this. but not today… i went out there and had a stress free comfortable session. probably my first one of the year. and hopefully many more to come….
then after getting barreled, i jumped in my car and headed to kyle’s house on the east side. gosh, it was such a beautiful drive going over the H-3…. note: check how clear my front window is in this photo….
got to klye’s house and i was super stoked to see my gyotaku print. this is the big kumu i caught the other week. i didn’t realize how big it was…. kyle’s father makes the prints and i’ll give you the whole scoops in an upcoming blog. i was super happy and went speeding back to the frame shop in town.
as i passed through the likelike tunnel, i seen some city workers cutting down the trees. the all of a sudden, i heard a “crack”…. shit, something flew on my front windshield of my car and cracked my windshield. it wasn’t there before right? shit, i was bummed…. check out the crack going across the window. that sucks… but i’m still happy about my gyokaku print… yeah!!!! worry about the window later….
this is kyle’s boat. check out the yamari sticker he put on it. that’s sick… speaking about yamari, just wanted to say hello to the kimura family and everybody at the factory in wakayama. see you guys soon….
No Magic Island….
good morning. 5:45am wednesday morning. waves around the island, no wind, and clear skies. it’s going to be another fun day of surfing. i’m out of here… have a nice day….
i was down at the ala wai yacht harbor yesterday and saw these photos hanging on the wall. this is old hawaii. look good and you will have a hard time figuring out where this is. why? because there’s no magic island. magic island was built over a nice coral reef and when i saw this photo, it kind of pissed me off. look at that a-frame wave breaking right where there is a lagoon now. that sucks on what the government use to get away with in the old days. this will never happen again in hawaii. this is the surf spot and reef that we let them take away….
and here’s another one. this isn’t the north shore of hawaii. this is waikiki. yes, waikiki. no hotels and high rises. all it took was one and others followed. now i’m going to fight to keep the country country. once we let one hotel go up out there, more will follow…. yes, money is evil…..
when i was in high school, we use to head down to this park on the weekends and have crazy barbecues. i went there yesterday to check the waves and when i looked at those picnic benches, i had thousands of memories…. oh, the good old days….. do you know where this park is? doubt it….
