good evening. another great day of surf in town. but not for me. i’m kind of surfed out and even though the waves were overhead and perfect, i took it easy. trying to get things done around here so i can start my travel journey for this year. the sooner i get things done here in hawaii, the sooner i can use my passport. and i can’t wait….

i drove by diamond head and oh my gosh… perfection!!! overhead, no wind, and not a cloud in the sky. dream swells….. i was watching for a while but it wasn’t good enough for me. i’m still in barrel mode. and if you want to get barreled, you have to go north….. i just thought that i’ll have diamond head all summer long….

came home today and was looking for kenji and chiaki. they were outside taking the worms and bugs out of kenji’s hair. haha… just joking. chiaki was cutting kenji’s hair and it looked pretty fun. i know how to cut hair so i asked if i can do it. kenji said yes so i got the scissors out and started cutting. it was actually my first time cutting somebody’s hair. i just made like i knew what i was doing and it came out pretty good. so if you see a good looking japanese photographer on the north shore, remember who made him that way… me… haha….

looks good yeah?

then it was lunch time. fresh fried papio… so good…..

and last, look at this photo of this poor little girl in iraq. i saw this on the internet and it made me sad. a lot of people don’t know how some kids live their daily lives in other countries. i see things like this all the time when i travel and it makes me super sad. please don’t take things in life for granted….

good morning. still got some waves in town. looks like 3′ and semi clean. not as clean as yesterday morning but still looking fun. got a bunch of guys out at bowls and probably 200 guys out at diamond head again. heard it was nuts yesterday. north shore is big. 8′ with a close interval swell. the waves are close together and not that good. sunny day again so get out and enjoy. i’m out of here..

want hardcore? this is hardcore…. do i want to try it? no way….
**though i’d share this message i got from a friend. i totally agree….
Life is too short to wake up with regrets. So love the people who treat you right. Forget about the one’s who don’t. Believe everything happens for a reason. If you get a second chance, grab it with both hands. If it changes your life, let it. Nobody said life would be easy, they just promised it would be worth it.

good evening. gosh, what an awesome day for surf on our south shores. a solid swell hit today and with no wind, perfect conditions. surfed our little secret spot this morning for 2 hours. overhead and perfect. caught about a 100 waves and had one of the best sessions i had in a while. surfed out.. came in and drove around to check other spots….

no, this is not backdoor/pipe. this is town today. we got an off season swell and nobody’s complaining…. that wave is 4′ and perfect…

japanese pro surfers session on the south shore. every japanese staying on the north shore came to town. so did photographers and video guys. tetta mori, shu hagiwara, shinpei horiguchi, yuki tako, keito matsuoka, satoru nakachi, and some others were ripping this semi secret spot. oh, even pro bodyboarder aoi koike was there. i don’t really want to say where because it’s starting to get crowded. and the worst part is, the wave isn’t that good. i use to surf here with my friends to get away from the crowds. on a day like today, there would only be us out. but now days, too dam crowded. i was actually kind of bummed out… part is my fault so i guess i can’t complain…. ended up going back in the evening to the secret spot we surfed this morning. got there at 4pm. right when we paddled out, the winds turned and the north winds blew straight offshore. the waves were epic. surfed with kenji sahara, todd mitsui, chiaki okayama, and maki vernon. had an awesome session and an awesome day of surfing in town. same thing tomorrow…..

and for all of those who emailed me about the waimea bay gallery on valentines day. it’s up now!! check it out on GO-NAMINORI.COM…..
**pipe bodyboard womens contest gallery coming next. chotto matte ne……