good monday morning. waves in town!! good conditions!! get on it!!! diamond head is the spot. it’s about 4′ and super super glassy. as for north shore, forget it. onshore and small. it’s going to be a beautiful day so enjoy it!!! save gas, surf town…..

i went to check diamond head yesterday afternoon right when the winds changed. gosh, the waves looked super fun…. today will be super funner…..

and once again, a tsunami warning was issued when a 7.2M earthquake shook up the mentawai islands on monday. freakin scary….
**i walk into andy’s sandwich shop a lot and always read the messages taped on the walls. this one was new so thought i’d share it. it’s pretty cool….

DON’T WORRY ABOUT YESTERDAY,
BECAUSE IT’S HISTORY.
DON’T WORRY ABOUT THE FUTURE,
BECAUSE IT’S A MYSTERY.
LIVE FOR TODAY AND APPRECIATE IT,
BECAUSE EACH DAY IS A GIFT.
THAT’S WHY IT’S CALLED THE
“PRESENT”…..

and last, check out this photo of these 3 dolphins rina sent me. freaking awesome. thanks rina. i think i’m going to swim with the dolphins today. have a nice day…

good evening. shitty waves around the island today. south/west winds screwing up everywhere except the east side. but the waves are flat so no good. some rain, some sun, some winds, and some of everything. a shitty day for some, but an awesome day for me…. tomorrow expect north winds with a south swell. what does that mean? yeah, i’ll see you out there….

wanted to thank fabian for sending me this photo this morning. this was yesterday morning at backdoor. the bungie jump wave. looks pretty cool.. haha… neal miyake, who i’ve know for years took this photo. right after i came up, neal was right there and said “yeah kirby”… now i know why. he got the shot…. when i first seen this photo, my ass got sore again… itai…. i haven’t bungie jumped a wave on the north shore for years. yesterday was the first in a long time. it really wakes you up. right when you start to get comfortable at one of the deadliest surf spots in the world that has claimed many lives, you eat shit like this and become much more humble. right now i’m pretty humbled. i realize that things could have been worst so i’m happy with my bruised ass. do i want to bungie jump again? heck no…. anyway, thanks again fabian for sending me this photo and thanks neal for taking it. i’ll keep this one forever and always look at it when i start to get too comfortable out there…. aloha….
*gosh, i jumped off the top of this wave and got thrown out in front. i must have been about 15′ in the air? ouch, my ass is hurting again.. better go get another ice pack on it. goodnight….

good morning. 6:15am sunday morning. waves WAY DOWN on the north shore. pipe looks flat right now. maybe some 2′ sets if your lucky at other spots. south/west winds so kind of junky conditions out there. as for town, new south swell. looks in the shoulder high range. but as usual, when we get a south swell, the winds are bad. straight onshore and super junky all over. i bet everybody is surfed out so today might be the day to take off. my ass is sore. i’m going back to sleep… goodnight….
**a couple of ways to look younger…. i found these off the internet…..

use your blow dryer on a cold setting to dry your lotion and sunscreen. this allows skin care products to set and makes your makeup go on more smoothly and last longer….

sleep flat on your back. smashing your face into a pillow creates fold lines that eventually become permanent if they’re repeated every night. in a recent study of 38 women and men, Japanese researchers found there was greater wrinkling in the afternoon than in the morning; they concluded that the face literally falls with gravity as the day progresses. at night, you get a chance to reverse that.
**want to know my way how to look younger? simple. BE HAPPY!!![:????????$B!r(B:][:????????$B!r(B:][:????????$B!r(B:]