good morning. 5:30am. waves on the north shore in the 3 maybe 4′ range. looks a little bumpy now but it should get better as the morning goes along. town even has some small waves. looks waist high with clean conditions. expecting a high surf advisory for the south shores tonight and big north/west swells all next week. keep on surfing because it’s going to be another great week. i’m going to go look for some more barrels again today. see you in the water….

i’m holding 2 fish. the top one is called a “mu” and the bottom one is called a “munu”. “mu”, or also known as the bigeye emperor is probably the hardest fish to spear. these guys swim at a far distance so you really can’t go and spear them. the trick is to lure them in. how? when you see them, go down 50 or 60′ deep and lay on the bottom motionless. then stir some sand around with your hands and just wait, wait, and wait. these guys come closer in very slowly so you have to have good bottom time if you want to spear one. so if you want a mu, practice diving and holding your breath. but if your like me, just ask your dive buddy. haha… thanks shawn…. i steamed that big mu, and oh my gosh…. so good……

check out this secret beach. you would have to be my really good friend or i am going to have to like you a lot to take you there. and everytime i take somebody there, i always tell them that they better not go there without me. if they do, i’ll flat all 4 tires on their car. and i’m serious…. well, just a little serious. maybe only 3 tires….

by the way, go-naminori has a new official blog. wanted to welcome kairi noro. kairi is 8 years old and has a dream on becoming a professional surfer in japan. so check out this cute kid’s start to stardom…. CLICK HERE FOR KAIRI’S BLOG…..

good evening. what’s up everyone, BIG NEWS IN HAWAII….. BUOY 1 IS UP AND WORKING!!! i heard it was going to be down until late this year but i’ve been checking it every so often. actually, everyday. well today it was on. good news for surfers in hawaii. now we can get back to the best way of predicting wave size and time of arrival. i’ll explain how that works later. but for you surfers that check the buoys everyday more times than you check on your girlfriend, here it is. CLICK HERE FOR BUOY 1….
what another great day of surfing here in hawaii. the waves have been going off!! not too crowded and just perfect….

i’ve been leaving my house pretty early this past 2 weeks. it was cool looking at the full moon and one twinkle twinkle little star…. this was about 6am. i pulled up to backdoor expecting it to be 3-5′ and easy. instead, it was 4-6′ with bigger sets and crazy… super thick a-frame sets all day at backdoor/pipe and off the wall. i surfed backdoor all morning. got a couple barrels and gosh, it felt so dam good. then i came in to grab my camera for a couple of shots. i swam out the danger zone. between off the wall and backdoor is the most dangerous way to paddle out. if you time it right, your ok. if not, your not ok. today i swam through there because i was too lazy to go around. big mistake. right as i got out, a freak 8′ set sucked up and broke right on me. i got pounded to the reef. then i got pounded again and again. i felt like a rag doll. i was beat….

this is what the waves looked like. it was 6′ backdoor, 8′ off the wall, with perfect conditions…

after surviving my backdoor session, i drove by waimea bay. everytime i pass by there on a nice day, i always say to myself “gosh, what a beautiful island i live on”….

i drove by haliewa on the way back to town. haleiwa was overhead and perfect. but i was surfed out so i just watched it for a while….

then it was an afternoon session up at the pool. did some laps underwater and some relaxation exercises. while i was relaxing underwater, i was thinking to myself “i think i’m in the water too much”. think so?
**anyway, epic surf forecasted for tomorrow. same thing. early morning session…. have a great night sleep because i sure will….[:Zzz:][:Zzz:][:Zzz:]

good morning. 5:45am. it’s my turn to get barreled. i’m going north shore. still pitch dark but the waves look 3-5′ and good. have a nice day….

i forgot about these photos i had in my dig. cam. this was the party a few weeks ago on the north shore. starting from the left is akira shido. i think of all the japanese pro’s that came to the north shore this season, akira got the best barrel at backdoor. you will see that wave in some japanese magazine really soon. that’s a guarantee. next it zuccho. my first time to chiba back in 1992, i seen this guy ripping the shit out of shidashita. he was riding an “island classic surfboard” back then. i didn’t know who he was, he didn’t know who i was. but he said hi to me. i will never forget that….. cool guy… check out ZUCCHO’S BLOG…. next is kinsan. kinsan is the most hardcore photographer in the world. not just in japan, in the world. who else swims on a boogie board past 10′ waimea shorebreak to get out to the 20’+ lineup? he’s been doing that for 20 years and is still doing that today. no food, no water, but he’s out there all freakin day. oh, and huge sunset beach too…. next is hayato. i met hayato’s older brother claude about 14 years ago at a barbecue at my house. it was at the barbecue when claude told me he had two brothers. i finally got to meet hayato and taito a few years later. then hayato and i went on the same boat trip to northern sumatra. since then, we became super good friends that share the two same hobbies. diving and enjoying life. that’s what we do.. check out HAYATO’S BLOG….

and this is pro bodyboarder moe watanabe. moe is a super cute and sweet girl. i think she’s still in high school. still young so watch out bodyboarders, moe’s time will come….

check out the NEW GO-NAMINORI STICKERS…. got them in orange, black, and blue. looks pretty cool…. want one? wait just a little while longer till it’s all printed out….
SURF YOUR DREAM…. that’s what i’m doing. what about you???