good morning. waves came down on the south shore but still head high sets and looking fun. 100 guys out at the park and only 13 out at bowls. i’m out there. have a safe day…. oh, heard the waves in japan’s been pumping. can somebody send me some photos? thanks…

i found this photo kinsan sent me a couple of years ago. thank goodness i kept it on my external hard drive. this is lester falatea surfing his favorite spot “Pipeline.” at age 37, lester was way to young to pass away. i’m going to miss the aloha and kindness he spread in the most intimidating lineup in the world. “bruddah les, when i catch my first wave at pipeline this winter, it’s going to be for you”….
**THE MEMORIAL PADDLE OUT WILL BE AT PIPELINE TOMORROW. FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 12TH AT 6AM. BRING FLOWERS AND YOUR SURFBOARD AND JOIN EVERYBODY IN SAYING GOODBYE TO ONE OF THE COOLEST SURFERS ON EARTH”….

good evening. wow, so many bad things been happening here in hawaii. found out today that the surfer who got attacked yesterday by the shark on the east side was a friend, todd murashige. i was out lighthouse today surfing when danno told me about the news. pretty shocking!! the shark got most of his leg and had to get surgery last night. wendell told me that todd was in good spirits so that’s good. todd, if your reading this, please take care of yourself. think positive and you’ll pull through this. i wish you a speedy recovery. i hope i wake up tomorrow and hear some kind of good news…. so much crazy shit happening these days. i haven’t thought about my life like this since i was born….
**this past weekend was the barrels users contest at ikumi beach in shikoku. i love going to that contest because everybody is really happy. good feeling and good vibe. ishino-san does a good job taking care of his customers and has been doing it for years. i’m super stoked to be a part of the barrels family…. sorry guys, i wish i could have had a couple beers with you at the barbecue. i was all drugged out on tylenol and if i drank a beer, you might have had to call the police. it just wasn’t me. but wanted to say congratulations to the competitors and finalist. great job!!

these are the ladies class finalists….

these are the open class finalists…

these are the senior class finalists….

and this is the beginner class finalists… congratulations to you all… full gallery is posted on WWW.GO-NAMINORI.COM….
**CLICK HERE FOR BARRELS CONTEST RESULTS….

good morning. still got some waves in town. looks solid 3′ with perfect conditions. another south swell on the way. typhoon hitting japan. waves everywhere. enjoy….
everybody’s been saying that my eye is getting worse. i went to visit my eye doctor yesterday and he told me that it’s time for pterygium surgery. dr. jorge camara is the one of the best eye surgeons in the world and i’m going to leave my eye up to him. so instead of chasing typhoons in japan or the philippines in october like i was planning to, i’m going to come back and get my eye fixed. i was thinking about which is more important. getting perfect barrels? or my eye? to tell you the truth, until today, barrels were. stupid yeah? that’s the surfer in me. i was planning to push it back to march so i can surf the north shore early season but forget that too. first things first. my health is more important than surfing. i just found that out. i guess i’m finally growing up….
**this clip might make you throw up but that’s my doctor performing the same surgery i will need. yikes…. can somebody please hold my hand???