good morning. 6:30am december 20th. gosh, can you believe christmas is in 5 days? fast huh? waves are pretty small again but looks like the north shore came up a foot or so. so maybe some 2 or 3′ surf at some spots. 2 guys out at pipe. the conditions are really clean at ehukai and lani’s. perfect for the kids. town is flat. one guy out at rockpiles, one guy out at bowls, and one guy out at courts. must be lonely out there… haha… the tradewinds finally backed down so everywhere is clean. i just got some new boards so i’m going surfing…. see you in the water….
OH MY GOSH!! want chicken skin? watch this amazing 10 year old girl. and remember her name because she will be famous for sure!!! she already is…. the next alicia keys. Gabi Wilson….

good evening. the waves in the north shore were pretty small today. didn’t even surf. went to check out diamond head around lunch time and there were some fun waves. overhead sets with a pretty good angle at light house. only 3 other guys out so i had a good session. the water has been freezing cold these past few days. i almost turned around when i felt the water today. if your coming from japan, better bring a wetsuit top at least…. solid swell forecasted for this weekend and a huge swell at the end of this month. maybe eddie aikau?? hope so….

want the best massage? next time you go to bali, check out “Cozy”…. the full one hour and a half full body massage for $8. the best massage ever… it gets really crowded and a lot of surfers go there so make reservations before you go. here’s the number; 361-16-6762. a massage you will never forget….

can anybody guess where this is? somewhere in japan this past september….

and last, tokura-san going down the line at cloud 9, philippines….

like many other surfers, i got the golf bug. it all started about 10 years ago when all my surfing friends in hawaii started golfing. i use to go 3x a week and was super into it. spent money i didn’t have and didn’t care. and there was only one way that i was willing to quit….

i told myself that i would quit golfing if i get a hole-in-one. i’m glad it happened a few years after i started or i would still be golfing today. and also be living out of a cardboard box… golfing costs bucks….

winter season 1999. the waves were probably good that day but i didn’t care. so when my surfer friends ask me about golf, i tell them “don’t do it”…. it’s an addiction that ain’t easy to shake off. and it’s unhealthy, and it cost a lot of money… stick to surfing guys….