A winter morning sunrise…

Good morning 5am.
North shore coming up fast to 15-18′ today. Be careful!
Ala Moana waist high and onshore.
Diamond Head chest high and onshore.
West winds at 15mph becoming north this afternoon.
Sun, clouds, and rain.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Round 1:  Surfing in the early morning darkness.  Only Nakahodo-san out.

Paddle!  Paddle!  Paddle!

Nice turn!

Surfing alone waiting for the sunrise.

Here it comes.  The orange sunrise surf session.

We got lucky again.  Chest high perfect rights all morning.  Clean conditions and nobody out.

Round 2:  Surfing with the happy Mizuno-san family!  

Fresh “aku” or katsuo for dinner.  Hot rice and miso soup together.  Thank you Joshua Moniz for the fresh catch.

7pm sauna and 8pm bedtime.  Good night and see you tomorrow!

Yesterday once more:  We gambled and WON!  Perfect waves, nobody out, and lots of waves!

Good morning 4am.
North shore 10-15′ and dangerous.
Ala Moana waist high and safe.
Diamond Head chest high and good.
No wind so perfect morning conditions again.
Sun, haze, and warm.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!