good evening. town had some waves today and diamond head was the spot. it was head high and super fun…

go-naminori web designer naoka and japanese photographer kenji sahara flew in today and scored 2 sessions in town. more south swells on the way….

and check out the evening sunset at diamond head. so awesome….. have a great weekend…..
COMPETITOR ALERT: Quiksilver Eddie Aikau
A letter from Quiksilver…

Aloha Invitees & Alternates,
This email is to notify you that the Quiksilver Big Wave Invitational In Memory of Eddie Aikau is on AMBER ALERT.
Contest Director George Downing has given the event a 50/50 chance of going this Sunday, January 13, 2008 (Hawaii time).
Over the past 48 hours Waimea Bay has experienced good waves in the 15 to 18-foot range.
The second storm system, due to fill in overnight on Saturday, for Sunday, has potential to be larger.
The timing of the arrival of the swell looks good.The duration of the swell looks good for a full day.Winds are forecast to be trades.The only question is what actual height materializes.
As you know, the height requirement for this event is CONSISTENT 20-FOOT OR LARGER.
George Downing will be consistently monitoring the storm from this hour forward. Our goal is to make a decision on the event as soon as possible.
Understanding that many of you have a great distance to travel, and must come to your own decision, we want to keep you informed as the situation unfolds.
We CANNOT make a definitive call on Sunday at this time. The decision of whether to travel to Hawaii ultimately rests with each individual.What we are striving to do is provide you with clear communication and relay whatever information we have to you in the most timely way possible.Unfortunately, with the absence of Buoy 51001, a 10-hour lead time on the size/arrival of swell is not possible.
Next update to competitors: 10am Hawaii time tomorrow – Saturday, January 12, 2008.

good morning. 5:45am aloha friday. still got some huge surf on the north shore. and still got some fun waves in town too. surf, surf, surf… everybody go surf!! have a nice surf day!!!
oh my gosh!! check out this sick photo from surfline.com….

this was pipeline 2 days ago. i was out that morning when the second reef sets started to come in. i paddled down to off-the-wall to get a last wave in and there were 12′ second reef waves white washing through. the other 2 guys paddled in and it was just me out there trying to catch a wave in. i only had my 7’0 and there was no way i could have paddled into any one of those. i had 3 options. try to take off on a 12′ white wash and go straight in? wait for a good set and free fall off the drop and break my board and head on the reef? or give in and paddle back around pipe and come in by the lifeguard stand at ehukai? 10 years ago, i would have chose the second option. two days ago, i chose the third. it’s still too early in the winter season to be doing stupid things and getting hurt. not that i saw this photo, i don’t know what the hell i was doing down at off the wall in the first place…. sean davey shot this from a very safe place. on the beach…. gosh, this is a crazy ass photo..

good big thursday evening. gosh, the waves where huge today on the north shore…. crowded, huge, and clean…

passed waimea bay around 10am and seen some 15′ sets. 50 guys out with 7 surfers per wave. that place is out of control…..

dove boss tokura-san came today and cameraman nakajima-san came yesterday. what perfect timing… if they came a month ago when we had bad weather and small waves, that would have sucked…. but from now, the waves should be good all winter… welcome to hawaii….

the traffic around waimea bay was nuts. town bound was backed up to foodland and waimea bound was backed up all the way to the traffic lights at haleiwa. it kind of pisses me off when tourists drive by waimea and slow down to check the waves causing all the traffic. but you know what’s funny, i do the same thing too… but slower… slow enough to take this photo…. haha… tomorrow more big waves, more traffic, and a lot more people….
**by the way, heard the waves at diamond head were going off today!! overhead and perfect conditions….

this was the left off waimea bay. one of the most dangerous lefts in the world. in fact, it’s unsurfable. but you know what? i heard about 15 years ago, mark occhilupo surfed that left at waimea bay when it was 20′. and also heard he was ripping it too…..

and last, check out this photo of the earth setting over the moon’s horizon… that’s sick….